Rather than the traditional X-Y line graph that can only chart one swell at a time, the Directional Spectra is a 360 degree screen that registers every swell in the water by its direction, its energy, and its period. This represents a significant leap forward. Whereas the line graph could only plot the most dominant swell in the water, the Directional Spectra chronicles multiple swells.
Victoria's Surf Coast is uniquely positioned with a broad swell window to the southwest, however incoming swells are refracted as they round Cape Otway. This narrows the apparent swell direction at the coast, so when viewed from shore the majority of swells appear to arrive from the south. So how can you tell if there's a westerly swell or a southerly swell running through Bass Strait if they all appear to be arriving from a similar direction at the coast?
Early indications are very promising and there's even a good chance for a solid swell over the Easter break.
You've only got one more shot at getting stuck into some elusive cyclone swell before summer comes to a close. And if predictions ring true, it'll all be contained within the coming three weeks.
Here at Swellnet, we are strong believers in the following train of thought: the most classic of East Coast swells come not from isolated Tropical Cyclones but the combination of a cyclone with a strong supporting high pressure ridge.
If you're a surfer on the East Coast of Australia you'll know that bluebottles are the scourge of summer. Yet it appears there's a new kid in town - the Blue Dragon. Blue Dragons eat bluebottles then use their toxin to sting people
Will this be the swell to kick the Eddie Aikau Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational into gear after a three year hiatus?
The swell from Evan was a true cyclone swell, one that was generated in the core of a severe, slow moving tropical cyclone, and yet it was nothing like a classic cyclone swell. The reason Evan won't be remembered that way is because it formed in isolation. Despite spending a week in the far reaches of our swell window and wreaking havoc on Samoa and Fiji, Evan lacked the associated weather features required to create classic cyclone swell conditions.
On the back of a relatively poor cyclone season earlier in the year, it's welcoming to see the first signs of tropical activity forming in the Fiji region.
We're now less than a week away from the start of the Billabong Pipeline Masters and there's swell on the way. We expect proceedings will kick off on the second day of the waiting period this Sunday, however before we get to size there are a few pertinent points that need to be covered.