Photos: Welcome Back Cloudbreak

By (Josh Bystrom)
Josh Bystrom

It wasn't so much the worst kept secret in pro surfing - no-one had complete proof - but there was a very strong suspicion the Championship Tour would return to Fiji after a six-year hiatus. Back in March, Swellnet spoke to Tourism Fiji who were "working with the WSL and talking with the new Government of Fiji to see what we can do for the future."

And then yesterday our suspicions were confirmed: Cloudbreak was back on, albeit it without a sponsor for now, yet back on it is.

As the news broke here in Australia, photographer Josh Bystrom was shooting a new swell at Cloudbreak so I'll let him take over the tale:

Wednesday started off at 2'-3' foot in the morning. Throughout the day the interval and swell size jumped. By 11am Namotu Lefts was showing some solid size and was clean which was a sign Cloudbreak may be good. We arrived at Cloudbreak shortly after to see a row of sets breaking on the ledge, cleaning many of the surfers out sitting in the regular spot during smaller days.

As the day progressed more and more sets hit the ledge with the occasional wash-through lineup reset. This only happens when it’s 6'-8' foot plus. Conditions were clean, the sun was out, and it was obvious the swell had started to arrive.

Standouts included Kai Lenny, Brisa Henessy, Jack Robinson, and Joao Chianca.

Brisa locked in deep

Yago looking for speed

Joao and a study in shape-shifting: hyper-extending his ankle to use his thigh and arse as brakes in order to slow down and get deeper

Bula and a shaka as Josh hooks up with 14-year old local Jamie Kusitino

On Thursday we awoke to a roar from the ocean and mist off Namotu - it was clear that it was big. Wilkes, Namotu Lefts, and Pools looked to be a solid 6 foot+ with the occasional set possibly three-times overhead.

We decided to make the call to head to Cloudy and were met by 8'-10' foot waves thundering along the reef. Due to the size and amount of water moving there are only a few paddling and a handful of skis doing step-offs. With the sheer size of the wave, step-offs seemed to be the better option as it allowed them to hand pick the best waves on the ledge without the risk of taking a wash-through on the head. The paddlers were much obliged to have the skis there as they were also running safety, helping each other when one of the paddlers fell.

Aussies Jeremy Willmotte and Caleb Pont got a few screamers. Local surfer Che Slatter used his unparalleled Cloudbreak knowledge to find some incredible waves as usual. Jack Robinson came out of a cavern so far up that many thought it was an empty wave that went unridden. Joao Chianca dragged his knee eloquently through multiple deep sections and Kai Lenny did Kai Lenny stuff.

It wasn’t an XL swell but it sure had the feeling of it.

Caleb Pont on one of the bigger waves of the swell

Kai Lenny switch-footing

Joao skewering Shish Kebobs

Jack startled at what he sees down the line

Jeremy Wilmotte ditched the foil for a late drop on orthodox equipment

Che Slatter, always on the bigger sets

Robbo in the mist...

...and styling through a snowboard carve on a big set

Style techniques: Joao reaches down with his outside hand to drag and slow before the inevitable shift to the inside rail

Unknown grabbing rail on a committed bottom turn

Comments

Sprout Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 01:30 pm new

Best wave in the world. Hope the tour gets skunked.

Shaggydagz Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 12:24 am new

World champ deciding waves by the looks...
Is there a better canvas than that? Who pulls apart the competition in waves like that these days?

Sprout Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 08:44 pm new

John, Kelly, and much to my chagrin probably Gabe these days. I'd be interested to see how EE and Robbo would go along with the new breed of chargers on the women's side.

dandandan Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 04:52 pm new

Strong agree.

fitzroy-21 Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 02:23 pm new

Bloody hell, I just love surfing that area. Great pics.

Daytona Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 03:00 pm new

Keep an eye on the local 14 yo kid Jamie. I was there in May when it was 8-10ft the kid was riding an 8ft gun and absolutely sending it on the biggest waves of the day. So impressive and such a shy quiet unassuming kid.

Bob Hawke Surf Team Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 03:14 pm new

Yeah, wow! I wonder how many surfers have a photo of themselves in a barrel like that at 14… and thumbs up to boot! I’m thinking maybe JJF and Jack Robbo but it’s gotta be a pretty short list. Kid’s the real deal.

Craig Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 09:59 am new

Incredible moment and shot eh. 14 and doing that shit!

ringostarr Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 03:25 pm new

I was lucky enough to be out there on Wednesday for 5 hours. It was a special session, up there with the best waves and surfing I have seen in the flesh.

Lanky Dean Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 01:51 pm new

Great work ringo !

t-diddy Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 03:52 pm new

amazing place

southernraw Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 04:32 pm new

Unreal photos Josh. Some dreamy looking waves and some scary.
That one where it's exploding behind Robbo is unreal.

goofyfoot Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 05:37 pm new

Looks so perfect but it’s so heavy

Lanky Dean Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 12:54 pm new

You had a sniff goof ?
If so how'd you go ?

goofyfoot Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 04:08 pm new

Loved it ld, but was shit scared on the big day I got. Very humbling.
Love to have another go with a couple of sessions under the belt to try and get used to it a bit.
Saw some incredible waves ridden

Lanky Dean Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 08:58 pm new

Yah ! (Said like bugs)
I few sessions makes things more familiar,
Wonder how things will go if they make it private again?

goofyfoot Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 07:26 am new

Well if it went private again there goes my idea of getting a few more sessions out there!
I’d have to sell my house to take the fam for a holiday on Tavarua

stunet Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 06:00 pm new

"Saw some incredible waves ridden"

I've always wondered how, in the context of the swell, it would've been to be paddling out and watch Laurie Towner take off from deep on that beast he got a few years back.

Excitement from watching the vid is one thing, but to be there, know how damn heavy the wave is, then see someone commit from so deep must've been like watching an apparition.

And he didn't even claim the fucker.

goofyfoot Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 08:04 pm new

Would have to be one of the most perfect and most perfectly well ridden waves ever.

And yeah like you said being so deep and knowing you’re putting yourself in a very sketchy spot if a bigger set comes. Lunatic!!

udo Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 03:29 pm new

And on a Borrowed Board..

Sprout Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 08:42 pm new

Scariest wave I've ever seen at size, horrible beatings. Absolute miracle of nature. For me, they're taking off on a prayer with the skill to make it if the wave allows, often it doesn't. It's elite level surfing with the confidence/skill/insanity to match. Humbling to witness and realise those guys are on a level I'll never be.

Lanky Dean Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 08:18 am new

If you don't go you'll never know
+ nathan
Kohl,
scardy
Ramon
Bruce
JJF

Lanky Dean Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 08:20 am new

Open ocean reef breaks. Act so different.

basesix Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 12:34 pm new

totally, stu, if you could make a drug that accurately mimicked the chemical balance of his post-ride mental state, as flying fish leapt from around his board, well, our job here on earth would be done

southey Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 06:52 pm new

Hey GF ,
There's plenty of chances for yourself to be ready for that wave by training alot closer to home . Theres no secret to the reason why Wayne Lynch would tear it apart without knowing CB itself aswell as similar spots at home .
The huge irony for myself is that i've been to Tav twice this year for work and sadly ( huge irony ) due to work ( and kids sports ) i haven't really surfed anywhere else much in between . Especially after scoring good restaurants on my last trip , makes me want to be ready for big CB . But yeah its painful that my ticket there means in can't be ready as i once was to have a solid dig .

goofyfoot Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 07:49 pm new

Hey Southey
Long time no speak mate, very nice of you to mention me and WL in the same sentence hahaha and I see what you’re saying but there’s a very big difference in WL one of the most naturally talented people to ever step foot on a board and pretty much fearless and me.
Just like you I’ve got my own business and a couple of kids so the days of dropping everything to chase a swell a few hours away don’t present themselves very often.
Also I really believe Cloudbreak is one of those waves with so many different moods and take off spots and quirks that the only way to get somewhat comfy out there is to be out there
Hope ya well

lostdoggy Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 05:51 pm new

Love Jamie's old school sunburnt stick.

radiationrules Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 06:20 pm new

most exciting swell event pic's I've seen for a very long time - great work Josh - lovin' Jamie the 14-year-old - what will we see from him in the future?

sean killen Friday, 22 Sep 2023 at 06:31 pm new

Next year heading there ..it’s a dream wave ..was there years ago on my honeymoon but didn’t the balls to ask..

Lanky Dean Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 01:01 pm new

Interesting to note brissa , joao, yago and Jack
Putting in the time to get familiar with the wave before the comp next year.
Its definitely one of my fave events.
Good news people !
Great work Josh !

tyzee63 Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 06:57 pm new

Yet how often is the WSL event run in surf that bit out there? not mnay pro's packing 8'0's

udo Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 07:26 pm new

Just watched some Replays of 2016 -17 Comps ...Un Fuggin Real Location.

Lanky Dean Saturday, 23 Sep 2023 at 08:59 pm new

2012.......

More tubes please Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 11:39 am new

Joao, Jack, Yago, Brisa. Filipe must’ve stayed home to surf Trestles?

Lanky Dean Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 02:21 pm new

Fils playing a game, alot of people might not like it. He is playing the game though. Unless wsl changes the rules, what you going to do about it ?
Its getting tiring, Fil surfed well all year and won the finals.

freeride76 Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 06:19 pm new

Credibility has never been accrued via rules- especially those artificially imposed by some kooks in California, most of whom are completely clueless.

wally Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 07:08 pm new

I don’t think they are clueless. I think if you spoke to a lot of WSL people off the record you would find them very very savvy about the surf and surf spots and where’s the entertainment. They are also subject to the difficulties and unpredictabilities of hitting a good swell window, the handcuffs about getting exclusive access to surf spots, the very large costs involved and the tyranny of the return on investment equation.

Issues that folk don’t always factor in when criticising.

freeride76 Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 07:17 pm new

The used to have a podcast called the "break room" which Dave Prodan did with the WSL staff.

It blew my mind how clueless the staff were- just genuinely NFI- about surfing or pro surfing.

Just a bunch of strivers looking to pad out resumes on the way to doing something else.

Thats when I realised the general institutionalised incompetence that was/is entrenched at the WSL.

Sprout Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 08:31 pm new

Barton's comments on one of his podcasts were interesting too regarding the complete lack of feedback down the chain, literally none, unless you were doing what they perceived was the wrong thing. Total seppo corpo aids.

Lanky Dean Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 08:13 am new

@freeride76, did you put salt on your cornflakes this morning.
Faaark, he's had a gutfull.......LOL
Blown his top.

Solitude Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 07:24 pm new

I have a strong feeling big Ziff has a fairly large say as to the where and when (Trestles)…….read: freeride’s CA kook comment.

Surfers used to go to Hawaii for 3 months to prove their credibility.

freeride76 Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 07:32 pm new

True.
It's never been easier to achieve in the age of social media.

remember that trip Toledo did a few years ago to Chopes where he packed a big closeout west bowl set and everyone was "Ok, he's finally done it- the corner has been turned".

It was one wave.

Turned out to be false dawn, but Toledo could gain more credibility with one wave on a trip somewhere than 30 world titles won at 3 foot windy trestles.

Solitude Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 08:12 pm new

I’d say posting up at Pipe all of Dec - Jan and paddling out everyday (ala Adriano) would likely land him more praise than his titles.

Not just him either, whilst Ziff wants the show in his backyard, the regard with which we hold all world champions and ‘CT surfers will suffer.

wally Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 09:59 pm new

Filipe was taking on Teahupoo then this happened.

https://i.postimg.cc/jj8BKHJq/IMG-1614.jpg

Since then he has been reviewing the risk/reward.

memlasurf Tuesday, 26 Sep 2023 at 10:08 am new

Should have worn a wetsuit top. I think most of us have had a visit to the reef or two the lime hurts worse than the cheese grating. He gets paid to do it and is the world champ you don't see any of the Motogp boys not getting back on the bike because they had a nasty prang.

Tobiasl Monday, 25 Sep 2023 at 02:56 pm new

On that topic, I recall him going around a month early (ahead of the event) to practice, maybe 5 years back. Unfortunately he got cheese grated quite heavily & instead of him improving at the place, it had the opposite effect.

seaslug Sunday, 24 Sep 2023 at 07:51 pm new

"had to" I would say Solitude

StayAtHome Saturday, 28 Oct 2023 at 10:04 am new

Brisa!! You rock