Gallery: North By North-west

By Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Following one of the worst winters of surf on record and beaches sanded to the nines, anticipations were set high as a dynamic weather system approached from the west.

The global forecasting models eyed off the system last week and stuck with it, that being a windy, raw day of surf building out of the north-northeast, followed by an abrupt swing in winds to the west and drop in swell as the low moved offshore.

The timing was the key though, and this looked to be the only fly in the ointment (besides the local sand situation). An overnight wind change was forecast (not ideal), with swell production reaching a maximum shortly after, resulting in a rapid drop in size the following day.

Being such a dynamic system, all eyes were on the timing of the wind change and it kicked in a little earlier than forecast, just after dark on Wednesday evening. This meant by the time dawn Thursday arrived, there'd be 8-12hrs hours of time between the peak in wave heights the evening before, with a steady drop in size set to follow.

As it were, Thursday morning dawned clean and offshore but with a little less size than could have been (though right on Ben Matson's forecast expectations). The swell was very north in angle resulting in a wide range of sizes across beaches, double in height towards southern ends. The period drew out as the morning progressed and winds howled, with a few select spots turning the conditions into long, walled out hollow rights.

Come the afternoon the swell was slower and straight, but still offering 3-4ft sets for the evening session. While it could have been all time if the sand was in better shape, all in all yesterday provided one of the better surf days of the past few months.

Winter Vincent battling the wind and winning

Vinny Burgess picked off the best ones (sequence above and below)

Vinny Burgess slicing

Vinny again

Comments

radiationrules Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 11:15 am new

that 1st pic - gold standard evocative

Craig Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 01:34 pm new

Cheers RR.

conrico Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 12:09 pm new

Any reason the rights were so good on a left-favouring swell?

Craig Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 01:34 pm new

Not sure, and the swell seemed to be coming in way more north as well. Just the sand setup down that end helped it seemed.

Pops Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 01:32 pm new

Cooking!
Get a few yourself Craigo?

Craig Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 01:33 pm new

Yeah popped out an hour or so after this, same bank a bit fuller but no-one around! Stoked.

Pops Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 01:45 pm new

Nice!

davidinindo Saturday, 7 Oct 2023 at 04:15 pm new

Hard to believe the lack of crowd!!!

Craig Saturday, 7 Oct 2023 at 06:31 pm new

By the time I came in there were a few more heads filling in, but I guess it's not the usual place to look under these conditions. Ie up the beach is usually the go.

garyg1412 Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 03:18 pm new

Absolutely amazing early morning east coast Australian colours. With some pumping wind swept waves to boot.

southernraw Friday, 6 Oct 2023 at 04:16 pm new

Magic pics Craig.
Almost thought it was some faraway remote beachie and point.
Beautiful.

Mattgallagher90 Saturday, 7 Oct 2023 at 08:03 pm new

Love these swell recaps

tip-top1 Sunday, 8 Oct 2023 at 07:50 am new

great photos, pumping waves

blackers Sunday, 8 Oct 2023 at 10:25 am new

Nice work Craig.

Chipper Monday, 9 Oct 2023 at 11:16 am new

I'd like that first photo as a print on my wall please?

Craig Monday, 9 Oct 2023 at 11:40 am new

Which one Chipper? The very top hero image or the first one below the text with Winter?

Chipper Monday, 9 Oct 2023 at 11:44 am new

The first one below with the text Winter... stormy and pumping! :)

Craig Monday, 9 Oct 2023 at 11:49 am new

Yep, moody eh! Sent you an email.

Nick Gee Wednesday, 11 Oct 2023 at 10:17 pm new

very interesting and unique day of waves. the swell size/period/direction, wind strength and bank set-ups i've never seen before in my 30 or so years in Sydney.

edit: also, great pics, thanks for documenting it.

Craig Thursday, 12 Oct 2023 at 11:18 am new

Thanks Nick, yeah these super north swells always do funky things. Add in the large build up of sand and it was even more unpredictable.

Sprout Thursday, 12 Oct 2023 at 11:24 am new

This one of Curl Curl by Andrew Christie is pretty cool.
https://d14fqx6aetz9ka.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/07174909/R5AC2489.jpg

Craig Thursday, 12 Oct 2023 at 11:29 am new

Indeed, very rare!