south swell

The Real Experience - Part 1

The Real Experience - Part 1

Craig
Lush green farmland flashing past breaking up the scenery, eventually reaching the turn off towards the coast. Bitumen turns to dirt, fine dust entering through the windows as the path narrows until finally a dead end. Waves crash ahead but the trees restrict vision to short glimpses of flaring whitewater. A short dash to a clearing reveals a vast wave scape stretching as far as the eye can see. This is what surfing is really about.