Ain't nothing like that new board feeling. Not great news when you have two weeks of waves ahead of you. Then my mate Ryan 'Wanga' Waine, big-wave charger from the Central Coast of NSW, destroyed my third board in the boat by stepping on it and pushing his fins through my last board. I nursed the board off the bottom trying to feel my way into it but I think Kong had probably surfed so many tubes on the board that it knew what to do. I took care of this board like a newborn baby for the rest of my trip.

The acutely south direction and the long period nature created a large disrepancy in wave heights along the coast.