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Wave at 1:42-50 is deadly!! Envelops the surfer!

That wave must be better than it looks !!

Yeah the guy on the green board , great angle, he would have gotten a caning. Looks like it has turned into a bit of a circus though.

How satisfying was it when the shoulder-hopping ,drop-ins got steamrolled ?

If a freezing cold, viscious monster wave is getting crowded it's a sign of the times.
Just got to be grateful for every uncrowded session you can wrangle I guess.

Why aren't more people going left?

I rarely see a good shot of it, but the barrel seems to hold up a bit better than the right which always collapses.

Is there no etiquette in big wave surfing? Doesn't anyone care about the guy inside or is it different in the big stuff?

Yeah Gillo there is, but my theory would be that a lot of the guys out there although proficient surfers at some level as to shoulder hop there you would have to have some skill level, but they are way out of there depth and so excited that they don't even see anyone else.

It's becoming a bit of a circus - the main thrill of it all now is not drowning. Nice over the falls at the 4.38 mark of the guy who had just wiped out.

Jamie Mitchell caught 4 waves that day and Shane Dorian caught 2
Dorian said the crowd stayed between 60-80 all day....wondering on the crowd numbers next swell.

I don't think those who "drop in" are necessarily bad people. Those of us old enough remember Greg Noll and friends stacked one on top of the other at Waimea. When it's big and you commit you have to go. And, often, the inside surfer on this vid was too far inside and was often seen to be steamrollered.

But the numbers tell the story. I stopped the vid and counted over 50. Udo says 60-80. Way too many for joy or safety. Hello the future.

i'd much rather hear live sounds of nature on vids, and keep camera rolling on huge wipeouts . great watching someone pop up after ahold down or even better sucked back over for arepeat and then ragdolled across the bottom for a two wave holddown. hahaha hillarious to watch. all been there, done that?
instead all we get is same old takeoff then cut!....boreing.

never seen that angle before its interesting to see how the surfboards turn & the party crowds & rocks inside .

at what point do we think high performance inspired surfing will come into the big wave paddle craze?? looking form the outside, you could watch footage of people surfing mavericks, todas etc in 1994 and its pretty much the exact some surfing (without the crowd) when will boards / surfers start trying to push the limits with performance in these sessions??

There seems to be a tight knot group of specialists, but beside albee layer and dorian on some of the insiders at jaws, no-one is trying to "rip" these sections apart, like they do when they get towed on shorter boards...

which brings me to my point about the 10'6 thread, is it the magic number?? what about 8'0 with weights, pulled in tail , concave, thickness etc so the guys can whip it under the lip, curve out of the top, take off later and deeper...

its never gonna be me, and dont wanna sound disrespectful, just throwing it out there...

'There seems to be a tight knot group of specialists, but beside albee layer and dorian on some of the insiders at jaws, no-one is trying to "rip" these sections apart, like they do when they get towed on shorter boards...

which brings me to my point about the 10'6 thread, is it the magic number?? what about 8'0 with weights, pulled in tail , concave, thickness etc so the guys can whip it under the lip, curve out of the top, take off later and deeper...'

Good grief, oh no, what have I started!!! Yipes!!! Far, far too much 'Truth'.

No, no, no, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!! PAAALLLEEEEAAASSSEEEE!!!!!!! Big waving surfing, design... and the 'elite, worlds greatest super athletes' have advanced in world shattering and moving leaps and bounds!!!

So they say.

But, the reality is this, to do what you ask DIN, is going to take, on top of much improved surfboard design... dare I say it... (the 'family')... the hallowed halls... l... le ... le... legs!!! Yes, some actual, genuine, world class athletes, with world class legs, ala alpine down hill ski racers. Who are demonstrably and measurable world class athletes who thus turn, carve, accelerate, jump and deliberately generate power and momentum at much, much, much, much, much, much (did I say much) higher speeds, and deal with much, much, much, much, much, much (did I say much)higher g forces than big wave surfers. And they are demonstrably and measurably much, much, much, much, much, much (did I say much) stronger, more powerful, flexible, athletic and bigger than any 'worlds greatest elite athlete' big waving surfer.

HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!

THANK GOD FOR BOARDIES!!!

How can 'The Truth' be disrespectful?

Are chrissie 'fibs' more respectful?

Deck the halls with boughs of holly, tra la la la la la, la la la la

Tis the season to be jolly...

Well..... That was 5.18 of my life I didn't really need........

why arent they using gloves, my mate youngy makes his own, he rides the longboard at snapper and rows into so many cause he can get in early with the extra paddle power. i dont know why Ryan hippy etc has caught on, shit those gloves will let me catch waves easier and let me get to my feet quicker- duh, duh, duh
just like uppys comments on board design, turn your hands into webs and gee whiz