Overwhelmed at Waimea - photos

Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

What price an offshore wind?

Yesterday the North Shore was hit by one of the largest swells in history and nowhere was ridable. Surf forecasters kept a close eye on the storm as it formed predicting a healthy XXL-size swell, however as it passed the dateline the storm jacked in intensity. Hurricane-force winds reached within 600 nautical miles of Hawaii and gale-force winds very close to the coast, and it was those winds that ruined what could've been a stellar swell event.

Regardless, it was still a swell for the record books. Renowned Hawaii swell forecaster, Pat Caldwell, put the swell in the 'giant' category and wrote: "Relative to historic giant episodes of the last 50 years, the occlusion point for the 2/22 episode was the closest [to the Hawaiian islands]."

The occlusion point is when the low pressure system stalls and the surface low lies beneath the upper low. And though it's not strictly correct, you and I can simply refer to it as the point when the low is at its strongest. Pat recalls that "the second closest occlusion point for giant surf locally happened 30 years ago in 1986, nearly to the day." That was on the 23/02/1986.

Unaware of obscure atmospheric book-keeping, Riley Edwards made his way down to Waimea and was overwhelmed with what he saw. Closeout sets regularly shut down the Bay and between the heads was a non-stop mix of confused energy.

 

Comments

caml Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 11:06 am new

Did the buoys go bigger than 28ft / 8.5 m ?

Craig Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 11:08 am new

Not from what I've checked.

caml Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 11:24 am new

Good makaha surf

southey Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 01:58 pm new

not so sure on that , wind looked NNW or WNW ? either way too much W

caml Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 05:09 pm new

Why are the pictures of it 25ft & offshore then ?

southey Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 06:00 pm new

you've got me beat ?

caml Thursday, 25 Feb 2016 at 01:07 am new

Instagram Picture of trevor carlson on 11ft gun makaha .admittedly its sideshore but clean enough to be good

stunet Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 12:39 pm new

Just got a message from Riley Edwards and he reckons the surf has easily halved in size from yesterday. Been a radical drop in size.

caml Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 01:02 pm new

How dare it stu ! El nino is slacking off hey !

caml Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 01:05 pm new

So its 25ft today ? Bummer it dropped off the crew will be devoed !

Craig Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 01:19 pm new

Yeah I was expected easing 18-20ft+ sets.

curl Wednesday, 24 Feb 2016 at 06:13 pm new

Any one have any idea if the Eddi will go? If so what's the outlook? Much wind predicted for Thursday?

caml Thursday, 25 Feb 2016 at 12:29 am new

It be virtually impossible to cancel it again