Shane Dorian // The Aloha Project - video
Shane Dorian gives us an insight on what it was like growing up in Kona and transitioning into one of the world's best big wave surfers.
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Shane Dorian gives us an insight on what it was like growing up in Kona and transitioning into one of the world's best big wave surfers.
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Comments
Dorian man... living legend.
Such a champ.
That drop amazes me every time I watch it. I think it will be mythologised over time like Carroll's Pipe snap, Fletcher's Chopes barrel, Laird's millennium wave...Dorian's Jaws drop...
Curren's first wave at J-Bay...
Or even his heritage heat 10 against Occy...
and that time i got a head dip ...er my first barrel
I ticked off a bucket list item & surfed Sunset for the first time last year but a bigger thrill was Dorian calling me into a wave he was out of position for. At 58 I thought I was over the grom stuff but I had a grin on my face for days after that. He's a champion.
Yeah that's unreal. Seems like such a top bloke.
Markr that's cool man, I reckon most would be pretty stoked on that.
.... The drop at about 3.00 - simply classic and then followed by a wave that even he clapped...simply classic.
He is the man! You won't even find someone to argue the point.
Such a good smaller wave surfer too.