Torren Martyn // Desert Drainers - video

Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

What do you call this backside barrel riding style of Torren Martyn? Walk the board pig dog? Shuffle and grab..?

I'm not sure, but it's as stylish as hell, and difficult too, what with all his weight forward of the mid-point leaving no room for adjustment and no weight over the fins either.

Stylish it may be but it ain't totally unique, a deep scan of the archives finds two other surfers who employed a similar method of staying tight while backside: John Peck and Owl Chapman, both at Pipeline and both over forty years ago. See photos below.

That Torren breaks it out at the down the line waves of the West Australian desert introduces another level of difficulty.

Filmed by Ishka Folkwell for Need Wetsuits.

Above. John Peck at Pipeline, 1963

Owl Chapman, Pipeline, mid-70s (Steve Wilkings)

Comments

Legrope Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 12:07 pm new

The tube a 1:37 is the one that would've made his trip worthwhile. The others are pretty sick too. Good amount of time in the shade.

spenda Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 02:48 pm new

What's he riding? Looks quite flat rockered up front.

stunet Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 03:54 pm new

Not sure. I trawled back through his IG account but there's no dims for the boards in those sessions. 

Definitely a twin but. Pretty much all he rides.

lostdoggy Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 05:08 pm new

Those twins really suck in the barrel.
;)

eat-your-vegies Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 05:43 pm new

Sick

And i didnt see him step off a jetski LOL

simba Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 05:46 pm new

What a contrast to modern short boards with its flat rocker but gee he was making it look easy which it isn't. Looked like Tombies which from what i hear is heavy as.Guys a charger.

ringmaster Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 07:14 pm new

Tombstones is pretty fuckn heavy but he's surfing the better known cousin a little further South which is slightly less so.

goofyfoot Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 07:16 pm new

That Owl Chapman pic is fucking epic

crg Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 07:49 pm new

A classic pic for sure

fuhrious Wednesday, 22 Mar 2017 at 08:06 pm new

I'm with you Doggy! Those twins and tubes don't mix! Stu?

stunet Thursday, 23 Mar 2017 at 10:00 am new

I'm feeling like a fifteen-year-old emo..........misunderstood.

 

udo Thursday, 6 Apr 2017 at 09:57 pm new

The Sweet Spot Torren Martyn : Vimeo.
From The edge Of The Earth :Vimeo..... twinfins again Stuart
Fuck is this boy good !