Watch: Never lose hope
Not all searches lead to six foot perfection.
As surfers we understand this truth.
And it's why, in the quest for authenticity, some marketing campaigns occasionally miss the mark. Because surfers themselves miss the mark - though it's not through lack of trying.
Which brings me to this clip, which at ten minutes or so is a longish one. You may not want to put yourself through it, because - spoiler alert! - they don't get great waves. But me, I was enthralled. Loved it! The lengths that Natxo, Aritz, and Kepa go to chasing a once-a-decade swell to an unknown corner of a surf-averse nation. They get close, but no-one will help them complete the mission, they fight authorities and they keep trying.
You understand that inexorable will to surf, surely?
The best line falls to Kepa Acero who speaks philosophically of their misadventure and calls it a "praise to failure".
Praise indeed...
Comments
Never lose hope....! great story and adventure,could have also been perfect , but ya never know unless you go.
An experience wave pools can't offer, except for the 'authorities' ..awesome.
Think I would choose a wave pool over this
India...in MP's famous words...I could say but I won't.
I know it's too fast (and it looks too fast on google maps), but why would they name it?
Always interesting to see Kepa's adventures, though. He really does go the extra mile.
Has anyone worked out what is roughly the perfect peel angle for a shortboard wave, or is it not that simple? I'm sure swell direction plays a big factor...but they could have saved themselves some mozzie bites
Here's an article we did on peel rate:
https://www.swellnet.com/news/coastal-creationism/2015/10/19/coastal-creationism-part-1-basic-reef-shapes
I think it may have had more to do with swell direction than the angle of the point. Bit more south and it could be a totally different wave.
Thanks, i think wave size is a pretty strong factor too - i know some waves that are unsurfably fast in a smaller swell but break perfect when bigger
Yeah, bang on. There's a shallow continental shelf where they surfed so it's gonna wipe the energy off even the biggest swells.
Impossibles in Bali is doable the bigger it gets with a bigger board. Bit of a burger though.
Awesome video...so authentic
Nice adventure anyway
Loved it! Suuuuuch a nice change to the manufactured, slick marketing reels of "discovery" - where you know they were choppered or flown Business class by the powers that be....
Great clip. Nice to see rather less ego for a change.
Another spot further north with potential
20.431851, 86.814178
Um, I remember specific waves from trips 20 years ago.
so sic!!!
Great to see something different.
Have had quite a few day trips that turn into convincing the weakest member that "you don't need to go to work tomorrow mate, waves will be good tomorrow, lets have an arvo surf, grab some takeaway grub, carton or two of beer and lets just sleep in our board bags down the beach, won't be that cold tonight, smoke from the fire will keep the mozzies away"
Always ends up being the worst nights sleep ever, freezing cold, eaten alive by mozzies/midgies and a hangover next day and swell has dropped. Great times
haha classic. "convincing the weakest member".. love it.. Peer pressure at its finest.
absolutely loved this story.if your all around a dinner table telling storys about your travels the best ones are those that went wrong.actually just got back from three weeks in india today,and i can totally understand the boys frustrations at the communication problems and worst of all indian burearocacy.palms have to be greased
those boys were in Cerebral Malaria territory.
good on them, but it only takes one mozzie with it to get involved...
l have some places pinned on GE that look similar but are main land India, hope L get there one day to check it out, theres many spots around the world to go check, get out there homies........Giddyup