Watch: Adrien Toyon // First Love

Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

Recently Adrien Toyon returned to his parent's Reunion Island house and found his very first surfboard. A Lightning Bolt twin fin shaped by Graham 'G-Force' Smith - yeah, Jordy's old man.

"When I was nine-years old, my parents gave me [the board] for Christmas - almost twenty years ago!"

"I found it again...and I brought it here."

"Here" is Anglet in France, where Toyon now lives. However, he didn't hop straight back onto the board.

"It spent some time in my garage looking at me," says Toyon. But when the time was right, and a nearby left switched on, the board performed.

"That single concave and sharp lines were perfect on this day."

"I never thought I was going to surf this board again, and even more in these kind of waves.”

 

Comments

Blowin Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 12:59 pm new

I’d like to see him surf like that on my first board : A shit brown Macgregor single fin from the tip. And I had to share that with someone....

And walk 13 miles through snow barefoot to get to school , wake up 1/2 hour before I went to bed etc etc

Nice waves there and interesting hook to the vid , so it’s a thumbs up.

rooftop Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 02:13 pm new

Yeah, mine was some strange 80's thought bubble. About 5ft nothing, 3 inches thick, full deck grip pad. Wish I still had it though... Be nice to see how it really goes.

Island Bay Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 01:51 pm new

Fast enough for ya?

Good bit of Friday stoke.

blower Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 02:42 pm new

Mad clip! Great concept, sick surfing and very well edited to unreal music (seems a rarity at times). Love it.

Spuddups Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 02:53 pm new

That guy has a good style.

surfstarved Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 03:29 pm new

Looks like a fun wave and a fun board, but I just couldn't come at Stairway to Heaven (or just the back half, as it were).

My first board, a 5'10" Force 9 thruster with a classic 80s airbrush, is probably breaking down underneath layers of landfill somewhere. I'd love to do the same experiment with it though, 30 years later. I'm sure it had far more potential than my juvenile floundering could ever extract from it.

Optimist Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 03:44 pm new

What were those big green things he was riding on?.. walls?..I think I remember them. Be nice to see some again.

LeoRoberts Friday, 16 Nov 2018 at 08:28 pm new

That guy with the kooky do , slashes !,

gnomen Saturday, 17 Nov 2018 at 05:28 pm new

Beautiful surfing, only 2 guys out? love it. At times it looked like he was "nursing" the board but with twin fins i found it can improve your surfing because you have to tune in more to the limits of the board( or really your own limits!) and so you can end up doing more flowing turns rather than jamming as hard as you can. I had a DVS twin fin that definitely educated me along those lines, Dick Van S, not afraid to experiment with his boards. My first board was a Barry Bennett "Pop Out" 5 foot something, s deck single fin, i doubt whether i could ride it now!

blackers Saturday, 17 Nov 2018 at 05:41 pm new

Interesting how he nurses it less through the turns on the bigger waves later in the clip, bigger free flowing carves . First board was a homemade (by someone else) kneeboard. Cost me $10 bucks . Can't say I ever want to see it again.

.cylinders Saturday, 17 Nov 2018 at 07:53 pm new

Fantastic clip!

What a great board to be able to say was your very first. My own first was a nose-rockered 6'6" Vartanian thruster shaped for Todos Santos. It's still kicking albeit in a rocker-less 5'6" format.

blackers Sunday, 18 Nov 2018 at 08:59 am new

Interesting how he nurses it less through the turns on the bigger waves later in the clip, bigger free flowing carves . First board was a homemade (by someone else) kneeboard. Cost me $10 bucks . Can't say I ever want to see it again.

spencie Wednesday, 21 Nov 2018 at 06:14 am new

I'd like to surf that good on a board from 20 years ago.