We don't usually get to see or feel what it's like for the competitors behind the scenes in the Big Wave World Tour, but this long piece on Naxto Gonzalez is a beautifully edited and moody video put together by Jon Aspuru.
Sit down, grab a coffee and be immersed for the next 12 minutes.
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Comments
This captures the heart in your mouth, very sobering feel of big wave surfing. The whole thing has this feel of “am I going to be seriously injured or die today”. You can here the joy and relief of hooting and hollering of his mates when he makes one or gets seriously barrelled. Go Naxto.
Yea go Naxto. Charges hard. Was that Jamie slipping on the rocks or is he still injured?
The real deal with all the glory and consequences that brings. Good man.
Lovely guy. But I personally don't see the point. All that waiting around for one massive wipeout and days of agony. Oh yeah, and one perfect tube at Nazare. Still not worth it though.
Until you've lived it and experienced it I don't think you can make a call on whether or not it's worth it...
Yeah it seems you couldn't even get close to understanding.
You know those days when it is well beyond your comfort zone, and you paddle out anyway? On some of those days you get washed in, caught inside, think you're gonna drown, you get washed over the reef and cut up; you're relieved to be back on the sand safely, exhausted and a little disappointed.
On other days you may get one massive (relative to the opinion / skill of the surfer) wave that gets your heart racing at a million miles an hour ... that one wave on that one day makes all the other days of struggle and fear for your life worth while. Without question!
I find it difficult to believe any experienced surfer could differ from this opinion.
I can only imagine that waves of this size multiply that effect by multitudes.
One of the best things was he didn't mention that God helped him. This guy did it on his own.