Watch: Torren Martyn // Rediscovering An Old Friend
Stu Nettle
Friday 07/11
6
"That board felt like the starting point for a new life."
"That board felt like the starting point for a new life."
The inner mechanics of Russell's mind.
Sniffing out the bounty on land and at sea.
From a day with a low wave count yet high consequence.
Like a hundred social media clips joined together but not on social media.
Seeking darkness on a sunny day.
And Matahi lifts the bar yet again.
Bite size humans in king size waves.
"The deeper into Indonesia you go, the more difficult it becomes to get around."
The surfers have arrived in J-Bay and the swell has too.