More action from the East Coast last Saturday. As the swell settled and the wind shifted, more options opened up including this left surfed by a handful of punters from near and far.
Kipp Caddy surfed for most of the afternoon, grabbing a bag load of waves, topped by one almighty barrel.
"That board felt like the starting point for a new life."
The inner mechanics of Russell's mind.
Sniffing out the bounty on land and at sea.
From a day with a low wave count yet high consequence.
Like a hundred social media clips joined together but not on social media.
Seeking darkness on a sunny day.
And Matahi lifts the bar yet again.
Bite size humans in king size waves.
Comments
that was fucken great.
love seeing those barrels getting packed on big boards.
Same Steve, was about to comment how great those longer boards look on sizey swells.
Unreal. Big and ledging. Looks like the bigger it gets, the better it gets.
Shit yeah love the Length - Dylan Longbottom was on a 9'6"
looks very heavy
Surprised the local Mayor wasn't out there, he's been known for charging that place (and other nearby local slabs).
Does he still charge?
4:43, 7:17, has a crack.
Footy is two-years old, would've been over fifty then:
B reef?
Looks like a hungry crowd of young rippers.
Its gets good, couple of times I surfed it, once with a mate, once solo, no one seemed interested in heading out there back in the day.
Paddle out off the rocks???
Looked pretty intimidating. Red board man doesn’t mind pulling in at the risk of a beating.
Red Board was Kip Caddy - 7'6"
Watched Carwyn Williams out there a million years ago, skinny little Pom he might have been but he didn’t hold back. Stripped back a few toes getting ashore I heard.
Carwyn Williams, havent heard that name for a while, a Welsh surfing legend.
Great footage would love to see from the channel.
Cheers Udo, yeah, he goes, no question about it.
Peterb and tiger on this thread. Is it an old-timers revival? Great to hear from you two gents.
Cheers batfink, I chime in from time to time. This footage reminded me of an epic Queens birthday weekend back in the day, when CH and a young Lowey charged it. That was an insane swell that went from 0ft in the morning to 10ft+ by lunchtime, with perfect offshore conditions. It was one of the best days ever at a certain wedging beachbreak not to far south from there.
The inlaws live right in front of the wave and told me "the kid on the red board" stayed out for six hours.
Why thank Batman. Took a bunch of photos that day, framed and hung them on the bar wall of the Tabourie Motor Inn .. look out Tim Bonython.
sick vid to a sick tune
I can't figure out where this wave is and ive searched all spots between maroubra and batemans bay and many of the spots between batemans bay and mornington peninsula. It might be one spot im thinking of but it usually looks a lot different to that.
When i used to grow dope as a living i spent a lot of time searching the south coast in my 4wd and havent found this spot.
I can 1000% confirm it is definitely not MP
Lol it's not secret at all.
smordue is closer than peterb, but they are both way off, and probably intentionally.
Groundswell - its north of Maroubra
Geez, I gave you youngsters the big hint … probably enough to get me head chopped off if anyone just up the road had a mind to. And that’s another one by the way.
haha. Yeah i picked up on that one straight away. It's an epic epic wave.
btw i've got insane footage of that place from about 10 years ago, but have never shared it with another soul and never will.
Ah yes i know thanks for the hint Peter B. the darkside is one of its many names by non locals.
Below 3 foot its usually too close to the rocks to surf.
Wazza fienbeir was one of the first to surf it in the early 90's as far as i know.
Reminds me of a tasty right-hander not far from Durras Lakes, when I asked a whiskered up local what it was called, he took off his hat, scratched his head and said .. ‘Depends on who you’re talking to. ‘
If the tasty right you're talking about is near emily miller bay and carries a shorter word from that name as its title to locals, it gets supremely crowded these days ever since it featured in a bodyboarding video. its one of the few waves around there that shortboarders cant surf unless they are like Kerby Brown in the charge department but is always crowded with lids or kneeboarders if offshore winds and less than 6 foot of swell.The only time its uncrowded is when its sucking dry like 6-8 foot plus...at least there are other waves around that break perfectly when that spot is breaking like that..
My mate gleeso the pro photographer has many films of me surfing it in the 2000's but i never realized the importance of collecting film of me surfing until later on when a pro said "a photo is like a good moment in a time capsule" or something like that.
I know the right your talking abut Groundy. Before your time it was only surfed by stand ups, there was no lid congregation in those times, I don't even think they knew about it. How's the placement of that slab at the very end of the section, we could only ever get around it on the bigger days.
Ah allright Jamy..i should have guessed that standups rode it first as its mentioned in Mark warrens expose book of almost 90% of surf spots in Australia what a shame.... its not an easy wave to find and the other breaks in the area north and south get a slight mention too..I dont know why they print those books he wouldn't have made a million dollars which would be my minimum fee for exposing all my spots.
and ive only surfed 345 spots in the world (i did a count on an 18 hour boring Russian roulette bus trip from Jakarta to Krui). i gave up at 300 and since then ive surfed 45 new spots.
That rock is deadly i never hit it but had it running right past that rock a couple of times and then ended up in the end bowl that's shallower but smaller.
Quality wave despite a few flaws like that rock. Deadly at 6ft plus and rock shelf not far away.
we found it by accident on a fishing trip on an onshore day, my mate and i thought there might be potential and the very next morning my mate wakes me up saying "winds offshore surfs good at that other wave, lets go". it was firing second day after finding it.
Never told anyone about it so took a long time to discover the name of the place.
Its a shame lids have taken over shark island, that spot emilys and aussie pipe dropping in on everyone...it makes me ashamed to have ever ridden a bodyboard sometimes.
haha. I know that spot too and last time i saw it there was 15 boogs and one stand up and it was 3-4 foot. Always wondered if it was surfable before that.
No it isn’t, but my bet is that it’s no secret any more … maybe that long looping left that fires up every now and then north of the golfer’s island is still under wraps. … and that’s another hint btw.
13th June 2022 Big South Coast Left (vs) Big Red Gun Shoot Out. (Round 2)
that last barrell on the red board, wow