He's not always out there alone, but for this clip at least, Riley is shooting the unadorned waves - the ones that slip under the pack or are rejected cos the odds don't stack up - which leaves plenty of space for the punters to mindsurf them.
"That board felt like the starting point for a new life."
The inner mechanics of Russell's mind.
Sniffing out the bounty on land and at sea.
From a day with a low wave count yet high consequence.
Like a hundred social media clips joined together but not on social media.
Seeking darkness on a sunny day.
And Matahi lifts the bar yet again.
Bite size humans in king size waves.
Comments
I just got so pitted.
Great clip keep up the killer work lads
Ah that was very nice. Sound off, with only the chirping of my tinnitus, it was quite meditative. Made the mistake of putting the volume off mute but quickly changed that.
Empty waves - a reflection of the past, or a glimpse into the future?
Sick
So many great waves and not one I was remotely keen to try and get down
Surfing
fuck, must have been pumping if these were the ones they let go