One surfer, one month.

Albee Layer, January 2023.

Always sitting deepest, Albee is an easy surfer for drone pilot Tucker Wooding to spot. When those double-ups pass under the outer pack at Jaws a scramble ensues inside, some surfers trying their best to clear the detonation site, others such as Albee lining up the entrance; preparing to knife his 8'6" - a whole foot-and-a-half shorter than most boards ridden out there - under the lip of the rearing wave.

January was an incredible run of swell, though it also came with mixed feelings for Albee who later lamented his stalled recovery from an earlier concussion.

"I did good at Jaws this last run," he wrote on Instagram, "not cause 'I’m back' but both because I was confident with my preparation, but also cause I had that “fuck it, nothing to lose” attitude. Which isn’t sustainable. So I’m still finding a balance there."