Watch: Big Blacks
All great waves are created by geological strokes of fortune: the angle of the coast to the prevailing swell, the slope of sediment layers, or the access to mobile sand, plus any of a thousand more options.
In the case of Blacks Beach in California, its fortune lies in the open path northwest swells can take between the Channel Islands, plus its proximity to the La Jolla Canyon, the head of which lies just a kilometre or two offshore from Blacks itself.
The combination of factors not only allows unfettered NW swell energy into Blacks but, similar to Nazare, the contrast between the deep canyon and shallow abyssal plain causes swell lines to warp and wedge. In the right direction it'll always be a few feet bigger than nearby beaches and throwing out inviting angles too.
And while Blacks ain't exactly a slab, it is a place that likes an elegant approach to barrel riding: longer boards, slight fades, maybe a bit of body jive too.
Comments
Stu, Thanks, nice vision. Was lucky to surf there in 2005 at 4-6ft, wonderful wave when it lines up as you rightly state. AW
Really like this last sentiment Stu you realised.
"And while Blacks ain't exactly a slab, it is a place that likes an elegant approach to barrel riding: longer boards, slight fades, maybe a bit of body jive too." Always loved and admired that approach, its so easy, and graceful. Cheers!
Refreshing video thanks guys. Nice to see the average folk out there in a nice swell, having a go. Gets a bit unreal seeing the top folk ripping all the time. There were some relatable wipe outs and some great waves ridden.
Puerto Escondido's little brother (also has offshore canyon). Was that Taylor Knox?!
Also not the only place in Mexico with an offshore canyon.
Fun!
Grew up just north of there and got some good long barrels there. One in particular etched in my mind as it bent and couldn’t see out but it let me out!
How did the name blacks come about?
I presume a totally different reason than the Australian wave with same name, that's considered "racist" nowadays
"Black's Beach was named for the Black family who had a horse ranch overlooking the beach."
Yeah, fair enough thanks Ben, interesting hey, ironically coloured people were banned from the beach, some time back....
Coincidental perhaps that I asked
Never knew that but probably should’ve! Merry Christmas to all!