Miraculous board retrieval stories
This photo has a story.
It was taken 45 minutes after a leggy snap out the back of Butterbox, which consequently resulted in a long 5-10 minute swim back in and onto the reef platform.
In that time I was hoping the board had washed straight in, sitting untouched up on the reef, but at the same time I was trying to watch the channel in which all the water hitting Long Reef runs out into.
Alas, on reaching dry land, I did a quick run across the shelf to find no signs of the board at all.
My partner was perched slightly up the headland and had my long-lens camera with her. She had no idea I had lost the board (let alone was swimming in), but after a quick scan of the big playing field confirmed my worse fears.
In that 10 minutes or so, the board had gone out into the channel and with a sizey swell running, it was on a express trip to the bommie. I spotted it way out to sea and beyond the point of jumping back in and swimming to.
Ughhh.
With the bommie thundering in the 8ft range I had little precious time to make a decision.
I sprinted back the kilometre or so to the Long Reef club house, hoping I could spot someone to borrow their board to try and fetch it, run back and then paddle to the board before it got sucked into the bommie and then became near impossible to locate.
With unfamiliar faces all around I then went to the Manly Surf School van and quickly asked if I could borrow the board, giving a 10s version of why I needed it. They reluctantly let me take a foamy and then I sprinted back along the golf course track to keep an elevated view of the board.
At first I couldn't locate where I thought It'd be (out near the bommie), but then I saw that it had been washed inside slightly between a funky patch of dry reef and Sh*t Rock. This wasn't too bad at all and a much shorter paddle.
I ran to the beach north of Sh*t Rock and paddled out as quickly through the shorie as I could manage and on reaching calmer water I spotted the board just behind the take-off spot though still drifting.
As I got within one arms length of the board, a big set came in and sucked up on the shallow ledge immediately south of SR, with me nearly going with it.
I had to let the wave suck up and take the board, washing it in towards the inside.
Ughhh again.
I then raced to shore to try and find the board before it likely washed up on the one bit of craggy rock along the whole stretch. Luckily though the current pushed it south and down the beach, pointed out to me by a helpful bystander.
After all that effort and what felt like a triathlon the board made its own way to the safety of shore, unscathed. I was stoked but exhausted.
My partner made her way back down to me on the beach and on looking at semi-pumping inside bommie said "why don't you go out and get a couple?". At first I declined while catching my breath, but then thought, yeah why not!
This is where the story comes full circle and she along with Nick James got a couple of frames. I wasn't going to paddle back out but I'm glad I did (using the Manly Surf School leg-rope), as the surf was super fun and made up for all that effort.
"........and took the foamy back to the surf school and thanked them again for their help"
When I was about 15 years old I put an ad in the readers mart news paper to sell a board I had made myself, my first attempt, a single fin fish about 4'' thick with rails so hard my mates said I hadn't finished shaping it. Anyway, a long-haired hippy came around in a beat up Kombi and happily gave me a cheque for $50 in exchange for the board. I thought he looked a bit dodgy, so I took down his rego number as he drove off.
Sure enough the cheque bounced and the bank teller said I had no chance.
Luckily my dad worked at the council and knew a bloke, who found out the pricks address from the rego number.
Dad drove me to the place, a run down old dump at Henly Beach with an old couch on the veranda and a wrecked car body out front full of beer bottles and rubbish with 6' weeds growing up through it.
I knocked on the door and the offending low life opened it and the shocked look on his face will stay with me forever. He was very apologetic and said he had no money to pay for it. I saw the board standing in the corner of his lounge room and marched in put it under my arm and walked out, the smell of incense, dope and sewerage wafting out with me. Dad never even left the car and we drove home.
Indeed H2O!
And wow old-dog, haha. Now that's a story! Great work and ballsy going to old mates house, confronting and then grabbing it (the board).
old-dog wrote:
When I was about 15 years old I put an ad in the readers mart news paper to sell a board I had made myself, my first attempt, a single fin fish about 4'' thick with rails so hard my mates said I hadn't finished shaping it. Anyway, a long-haired hippy came around in a beat up Kombi and happily gave me a cheque for $50 in exchange for the board. I thought he looked a bit dodgy, so I took down his rego number as he drove off.
Sure enough the cheque bounced and the bank teller said I had no chance.
Luckily my dad worked at the council and knew a bloke, who found out the pricks address from the rego number.
Dad drove me to the place, a run down old dump at Henly Beach with an old couch on the veranda and a wrecked car body out front full of beer bottles and rubbish with 6' weeds growing up through it.
I knocked on the door and the offending low life opened it and the shocked look on his face will stay with me forever. He was very apologetic and said he had no money to pay for it. I saw the board standing in the corner of his lounge room and marched in put it under my arm and walked out, the smell of incense, dope and sewerage wafting out with me. Dad never even left the car and we drove home.
Haha I grew up in Henley, right on the esplanade. Wasn’t me I promise. The good old days, wouldn’t be anyone fitting that description in Henley these days.
When i was working at Maccas resort a guy from a surf travel company came out (a USA one), first surf he snapped his leggie and lost his board and it was in the last half hour of light.
Not sure how but he lost sight of the board, and crew went looking for his board but didn't find it, first light next morning, they had another look and nothing.
Was just an everyday 3ft or so day and winds not crazy, so i dont know where it went, maybe some local grabbed it and hide in the bushes quickly or something.
Dedicated to Craig's Miraculous Boardswaps & Leggie Swaps
( Lost'n'Found Forward )
Distant memory Guns that resurface to haunt Surfers
Once held romance of mystery with Hawaiian Paddle in Legends..
Even a swag of Late 50's early '60's surf lovers Hit Singles of Tragic Tales of suicide pacts
Thru to 70's Ice Blocks ads & After Shave Lotion ads!
But soon sold out as sponsored VIP Hero Jocks Tall Tales Pod Launch!
Other Titles now include missing Go Pros recording own adventures, taking on a life of their own!
tbb will jointly focus on Big Wave Ocean Current shoreline Timetables for adjunct ocean study.
Crew will be rewarded with an exclusive Chart / links for research purpose.
We can use the word Gun to itemize a Table of Likewise Big Wave Miraculous Board Retrievals
Gonna intro and back track a White Board timetable to better understand origins & Book Launches.
Basically to better first understand how broad of scope current Surf Culture in this regard!
Pretty sure all swellnet fans feel Surf God Craig is overqualified to ask this Question!
Perhaps like us...we're only human and we wanna unlock this taboo!
Let's see where this path leads us & what's at stake.
Given recent Larger than Life Surf Safaris now have history...think we can get a handle on this!
Once again tbb is tied to the mast as the research will dictate the Chart as it unfolds fresh to all!
The varying nature of Story Telling shares the depth of Current Surf Culture to celebrate! (Below!)
Key
tbb's (Gun) Supersizes + shortens Craig's {Miraculous Board} to better chart Retrieval
Craig's (Retrieval) gets replaced with (Reunited) > tbb has no control over Surf Culture!
Birth > Original Event > (Board) > Distance > Instigator > Reunification Date > Point of Miracle
* 1968 > 45 year [Locals Only] UK GT Stripe Gun Club Reunification
https://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/surfer-reunited-with-surfboar…
* Late 60's Surfie Chick > UK GT Stripe Gun Club Reunification
https://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/surfers-reunited-with-their-f…
*1972 Brookvale NSW Spray Gun / Christmas Gift > 2,200kms reunited Aug 2020 Northland NZ
https://www.facebook.com/NZVSC/posts/kia-ora-koutoui-thought-id-update-…
https://www.nzherald.co.nz/bay-of-plenty-times/news/surfboard-collector…
*1978 Stolen from Mum's Garage Newcastle Gun > 4,000kms reunites with Son Aug 2018 Margs WA
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-08-12/stolen-surfboard-finds-way-home-…
*1980 Collaroy Niteclub #1 Hawaii Thruster > 5kms repatriated for Oct 2024 North Narrabeen 60th.
*1984 Tarifa Windsurf Gun > reunited 3,300kms > July 2021 Klitmoller Denmark
https://www.facebook.com/groups/oldschoolwindsurfers/posts/101592546076…
*1989 Hillsborough Tragedy Gun > 125 kms > Liverpool Jan 2025 reunited with Aussie Football Star
https://www.liverpoolfc.com/news/craig-johnston-reunited-special-surfbo…
*2004 Dad's Stolen Samoan Gun -4,345kms (Aug'18 Leggie R.I.P) Son re: Mar 2019 Bermagui NSW
https://aboutregional.com.au/treasured-surfboard-found-at-bermagui-15-y…
*2007 (Approx) Dodgy Bonza California Surfy Surfy Shop reunited stolen Board with owner 2010
https://www.surfysurfy.net/2010/09/reunited/
*2017 Mar'Lost Pedra Branca Tommy Gun > resurfaces 2,700kms > July 2018 Magnetic Island Qld
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-03-15/surfboard-found-after-16-months-…
*2017 Lost La Nord Purple Patch Gun > 16kms out to sea > A few months later Bay of Biscay
see World Ocean Debris Day link
*Lost Feb 2018 Waimea Bay Gun > resurfaces 8,370kms > Aug 2020 Sarangani Philippines
https://people.com/sports/hawaii-man-finds-friendship-with-man-who-reco…
*2020 Lost Jan Todos Santos Hand Gun > resurfaces 5kms > A few days later off coast 1/2 moon bay.
see World Ocean Debris Day link
*Lost Oct 2020 Runswick Bay Gun Whitby > resurfaces 650kms > 28 Dec 2020 Peerie Beach Skeld UK
https://www.goodnewsnetwork.org/surfboard-found-and-returned-from-400-m…
* Lost Feb 2021 Depot Bombie Quadie Gun > beached 5kms > 1week Later down the S/Coast NSW
See World Ocean Debis Day Link
*Lost May 2024 South Tassie Gun > resurfaces 2,400kms away > Oct 2025 Raglan NZ https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-10-27/surfboard-found-intact-after-dri…
Ocean Debris Day / is morphing into Da Boyz Tallest Tales Annual (Crew likely expected such!)
https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/reunited/122410
Sunny Coast = Sunny Vibes
https://www.facebook.com/groups/sunshinecoastsurf/posts/248968831466493…
Reunited (A Heart warming Surf Culture Summary that even surprised tbb)
In respect answers Craig Quest of finding good within the Surf Community. ( Hunch pays off!)
Reunited is the preferred term of Surfboard < > Owner Reunions
Possibly as Humans imprint personalty into Safari Accessory
Reunited = Walking Stick / Suitcase! (Found alone implies a Missing Person)
eg : Lifeguards trigger Amber Alert Chopper rescues over an unclaimed Beach Towel...(True!)
Rescue is only completed when Surfer Vows to skip work next Big Swell > Promise!...You better!
( Proves that Beachgoers are honest folk )
[Locals Only] Surf Shops / Cafes : Do Keep an Eye out on Local's lost /Stolen Boards
Heritage Institutions take pride in tracking > Promoting Exhibits with Local Original Surfers / Shapers
Beachgoers / Fisherman who find Boards are likewise considerate to keenly seek owners
Owners are likewise considerate to reward those returning their craft.
Now we could leave it at that...But...
Current boards drift at speeds 1.75 kph vs Bronze 2 kph
Rip tide boards drift at speeds 8 kph vs Olympian 8.5 kph
That means ya gonna need better class of Stuntmen to perform yer Miracles!
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( Trial Project) Broken Leash Safety Response will secure yer Miracles...
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Wavepools mandate leashed Craft to ward off any hint of Century old Wave Therapy Miracle Cures!
Naturally when a Leash Breaks #1 Stop > #2 Signal Lifeguard > #3 Evacuate #4 Comply.
Reality is quite different ...
URBNSURF (Let's take a trip to tomorrow land) Just to see if this is the right Back up Plan!
WHAT HAPPENS IF I DAMAGE OR BREAK BOARDS, WETSUITS AND SURF EQUIPMENT?
You will be liable to cover the cost of the damage or replacing broken items!
+
Endless Surf > Damage to surf equipment / Breakage / major damage / Loss & theft
LIABILITY FOR DAMAGES Leash UVP + 20%
That's it...( You will Pay Punk! ) Not! Take emergency precaution.
Not even interested in yer wellbeing > Nothing about Safety Compliance > Emergency Response!
Craig's Miraculous Board Retrievals & Leggie Swaps are heavily penalized and costly in Wavepools
+ (Current)
SURFER Nov 1, 2025 9:00 AM EDT
7 Mental Hacks That Help Surfers Stay Calm in Rough Waters
Here are a few techniques to keep calm when everything goes south in the water.
06 : Learn the Art of Wiping Out
If your leash has snapped, again, don’t panic. You’ll be able to orient yourself and feel the motion of being pulled in one direction: upward. Go with it.
tbb researched any / all for What happens if yer Leggie Snaps...the whole town shuts up shop...Dunno!
Surfing Aust / WSL/ Surf Media / Leg Rope Brands / Wavepools offer less to nothing!
All mandating Leggies for commercial reason never
+ Turn on yer Telly...Lifeguard Surfer dies at iconic deadly surf break
Surfers Point endless Surf Merch Tragedy mounts
Calls for better safety awareness after drowning at Margaret River surfing mecca
Surfers are lobbying governments for more safety signage and patrols to avoid future tragedy.
"So you'd have a couple of towers that have a good vantage point, communication and a jet ski.
We have got so many incredible ocean people in this area,
Just to get them upskilled and trained up in rescue would make a huge difference straight off the bat because they're often first on scene."
Miraculous endless Surf Merch Victim Retrieval Stories at Surfers Point. (Gulp!)
https://tracksmag.com.au/surfer-dies-after-being-struck-by-a-board-near…
https://www.theinertia.com/surf/terrifying-details-emerge-of-margaret-r…
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-11-08/ocean-safety-call-after-drowning…
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Ok! Wot if any Surf Bodies are on board with Craig's Point of Miracle Retrieval Dreamtime.
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swellnet Leash Breaks
Here our own crew can & do Example Focus on Surf Fitness / Tips ...part of a larger series!
https://www.swellnet.com/comment/563903
*https://www.swellnet.com/forums/wax/387984
*blindboyMONDAY, 12 FEB 2018 at 10:38AM ( Shares similar experience at above WA break! )
https://www.swellnet.com/news/surfpolitik/2018/03/27/should-legropes-br…
swellnet Ben leads from the front in recognising exactly what's at stake! (Salute!)
In fact the crew are well ahead of media in recognizing Craig's Ironman adaptability being Key!
thermalben SUNDAY, 11 FEB 2018 at 11:58AM ( Intro)
Great topic mate. I'm always mindful that every surfer should make sure they can swim 4-5 laps of an olympic swimming pool without any problems. A legrope is only a precautionary measure.
Also, far too many surfers don't seem to plan entry/exit routes etc before they paddle out. Even at locations I surf frequently, I'll spent 5-10 mins watching the current and timing the sets to get a feel for how a couple of rare circumstances might play out (where would I drift to if I got caught inside, where would I come in, if that doesn't work out then what's the next option etc).
Best relative advice to Consummate Point of Miracle! (Not read better!) Seriously!
Security Leash / Point of Miracle Trial Continues...( So..are there others stepping up...)
January 12, 2025 Written by nanazero editorial team
Example of Ethical Surf Product Safety awareness! ( Merch Site that is on point with selling Miracles)
This will come as nice surprise...a merch site that wants to lead with Safety from the Front!
Goes out of it's way to dedicate safety to each Customer Base.
https://nanazero70.com/blogs/blog/surf-leash-safety-guide?srsltid=AfmBO…
Leash Break
If your leash breaks while surfing:
Stay calm and signal to nearby surfers if help is needed
If close to shore, body surf in
If far out, conserve energy and wait for assistance if necessary
Contains ...
Common Dangerous Scenarios
When your leash becomes caught on underwater obstacles:
Final Safety Note: Remember that your leash is a crucial piece of safety equipment.
Summary.
Timeline shows a Cultural appetite for a Surfers Code to enshrine Miraculous Board Retrieval Stories!
Craig's quest does have cultural merit if anchored to Foundation Stones of Waterman Culture.
Of one sound healthy mind ever in tune with Majesty of Kind.
eg: swellnet knocked out a Miraculous board retrieval story just the other day...
It's actually eerily similar to Craig's story ...both epic exhausting and rather dramatic...Big Finish!
mick66FRIDAY, 7 NOV 2025 at 11:52AM
Sunzal. Usually a pretty mellow wave, but almost drowned there way, way back in the day. Fresh and growing swell, solid triple overhead, missed the first wave of the set, and spun around to see the big dark monster looming. After a really long hold down, surfaced and started the long boogie board style paddle in on the half of the board left. There's a rock outcropping way down the beach, which I kept getting drawn closer and closer to. I tried to paddle out to the horizon, no luck. I tried to paddle straight to the beach, also ineffective. Still probably double overhead on that inside, with the waves detonating into the rock only a few feet away, at the last second a wave wedged against it, broke left and I bellied it to the beach.
After getting the snap board doweled and put back together, 2 days later my first wave of the session was still one of the my favorite waves ever.
Those times when you lose your board and all looks doomed, until somehow, by divine intervention it is saved.. or otherwise.