Epic smooth perfect waves, epic session but..

Paddling out longboarder on gloss blue 9 - or even 10ft board decided to kick out because they wouldnt make it near rock with a pretty crowded lineup as I was paddling out , i did an evasive last second duckdive to save my face getting caved in because i would never have expected what they were about to do.. Thing was the way they speared the board out forwards at maximum speed + who knows how long their leash was by the time it got to me as it stretched out in a very heavy section due to the way they speared it forwards so fast - like 15/20 foot long it seemed like?!

Means that I cant walk now for at least a week after a most epic session.. The nose of their board smashed my leg like a sledge hammer, i got the maximum impact i could have got in that situation I reckon. Im glad my femur feels in tact and i saved my face by about 1/3 of a second. 1 hour ice bath so far.

I am not out for vengeance, I'm out to make sure this doesnt happen to my kids that surf out there with the story of what not to do.

I highly regret not fully deep water bailing with hinesight, but you just dont expect that, I was sooo far way in relative terms when they kooked it.

Lessons: Don't spear your board forwards with a bunch of people on the inside, consider getting a shorter/less stretchy old leash, make the wave you go for - especially with people in front of you on inside (it was pretty varied set sizes), hold onto you board - why should someone else deal with the fact that you kooked it.

OMG it hurts, i cant walk. It will get better.