'The Long Ride' Jock Sutherland in the New Yorker

"A surfer as famous as he was could have made enough money for an easy retirement, I thought, but Sutherland hadn’t cashed in. Surfing was never, to his mind, a job. Even when he was at the apex of the surfing world, he was unimpressed, stubborn. There was no pro tour in those days. “You could work for a board manufacturer, maybe have your own signature-model board,” he told me. “But that meant sell, sell, sell. That was . . . crass. I mean, the banality. It was antithetical to being able to enjoy being out in the water.”"

Great piece by Bill Finnegan on Jock. Covers a lot of territory, put some time aside, but unless you're a subscriber don't close the page with the intention of opening and reading it later. You get one article to read for free, and you can only open it once.

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/06/10/jock-sutherland-profile-s…