What is the objective when riding a wave?

bombora Wednesday, 18 Aug 2010 at 10:04 am new

Roy is part of the surf industry, whether he likes it or not.
And his intolerance of other people's ideas and attitudes to life single him out as the "odd one out". Which is how he seems to like it.

I too, take exception to having him tell me the surf industry has told me I must describe my surfing as fun.
What I especially take exception to is him telling me I can't define my surfing as "fun" because it means I've been brainwashed. Yet he is doing everything he can to brainwash us into "his" way of thinking.
Major FAIL Roy.

antifroth Wednesday, 18 Aug 2010 at 10:53 am new

Spot on bombora!
Now back to the core of the original message in this thread.
It is to have as much fun as you can out of surfing and make sure you are aware of other people to have some fun in the water too.

roystewart Wednesday, 18 Aug 2010 at 07:31 pm new

it.

I too, take exception to having him tell me the surf industry has told me I must describe my surfing as fun.

What I especially take exception to is him telling me I can't define my surfing as "fun" because it means I've been brainwashed.

Yet he is doing everything he can to brainwash us into "his" way of thinking.
Major FAIL Roy.

By: "bombora"

Actually I'm doing nothing of the sort.

I don't use scientific brainwashing techniques, as used in surf industry marketing. Scientific brainwashing tecniques ensure that you are not aware of the programming, that you feel that you are making your own decisions, and that you are the author of your own desires. Brainwashing hides itself.

What I do is direct and without subterfuge. Because of this you think I'm trying to tell you what to think but really I'm not, I have no expectation regarding how you think or whether or not you will change your way of thinking.

.

roystewart Wednesday, 18 Aug 2010 at 07:39 pm new
"bombora" wrote:

it.

I too, take exception to having him tell me the surf industry has told me I must describe my surfing as fun.

What I especially take exception to is him telling me I can't define my surfing as "fun" because it means I've been brainwashed.

Yet he is doing everything he can to brainwash us into "his" way of thinking.

Major FAIL Roy.

By: "roystewart"

Actually I'm doing nothing of the sort.

I don't use scientific brainwashing techniques, as used in surf industry marketing. Scientific brainwashing tecniques ensure that you are not aware of the programming, that you feel that you are making your own decisions, and are the author of your own desires. Brainwashing hides itself.

There are billions of dollars spent every year specifically to control and determine the ways in which you think and feel. When you parrot the catch phrases used in such brainwashing it is evidence that it is working. 'Surfing is fun' is one such concept.

The marketing for 'fun' doesn't mean however that surfing isn't describable as fun, it just means that the majority of people will adopt that particular concept instead of other ones, it reduces variety and introduces a monoculture, it also virtually lobotomises people as they have a reduced ability to think for themselves.

What I do is direct and without subterfuge. Because of this you think I'm trying to tell you what to think but really I'm not, I have no desire to change your way of thinking.

.

roystewart Wednesday, 18 Aug 2010 at 07:53 pm new

Roy, I will not refer to you as an acid tripper or anything else, but I am interested to how you describe what surfing is to you?

By: "mtw"

Surfing is arguing on the internet ;)

Seriously though it's a multifaceted activity, and sometimes when I ask myself why I do it, the answer seems to be no more or less than "because I do" or "because it is there".

Of course the health benefits to surfing are great, and it's fundamemtally pleasurable to mind, body, and spirit, but my emotions surrounding it are complex and varied, as well as being sometimes completely absent during the best sessions. . . almost as if it's like a 'no mind' hunting task, like being in the zone. At those times I ride waves and then can't remember them immediately afterwards. Surfing makes me feel predatory at times, at other times it's like a game of chess, other times like a dream. It's hard to explain and I'm sorry that I'm not doing a very good job of it.

.

roystewart Wednesday, 18 Aug 2010 at 07:54 pm new

Aaargh two double posts, the posting's a bit slow, sorry.

mtw Wednesday, 18 Aug 2010 at 10:48 pm new

Thanks Roy!

That is a great description of the feelings you get. I agree that the rush you get is more in depth than just 'fun' but to describe it in one word you are out there for fun. Dont agree with all your points but can appreciate them now. I guess if we all agreed with everyones point, hey we would not have a forum.

roystewart Thursday, 19 Aug 2010 at 08:11 am new

Well it's just a few thoughts I'm sure that most people surf for recreation and that that can be broadly and vaguely described as fun but also that surfing involves a huge range of feelings. Also in the case of professionals they surf primarily to win. I have a surf to win attitude myself, self judged.

.

bombora Thursday, 19 Aug 2010 at 09:02 am new
"roystewart" wrote:
"bombora" wrote:

it.

I too, take exception to having him tell me the surf industry has told me I must describe my surfing as fun.

What I especially take exception to is him telling me I can't define my surfing as "fun" because it means I've been brainwashed.

Yet he is doing everything he can to brainwash us into "his" way of thinking.

Major FAIL Roy.

By: "roystewart"

Actually I'm doing nothing of the sort.

I don't use scientific brainwashing techniques, as used in surf industry marketing. Scientific brainwashing tecniques ensure that you are not aware of the programming, that you feel that you are making your own decisions, and are the author of your own desires. Brainwashing hides itself.

There are billions of dollars spent every year specifically to control and determine the ways in which you think and feel. When you parrot the catch phrases used in such brainwashing it is evidence that it is working. 'Surfing is fun' is one such concept.

The marketing for 'fun' doesn't mean however that surfing isn't describable as fun, it just means that the majority of people will adopt that particular concept instead of other ones, it reduces variety and introduces a monoculture, it also virtually lobotomises people as they have a reduced ability to think for themselves.

What I do is direct and without subterfuge. Because of this you think I'm trying to tell you what to think but really I'm not, I have no desire to change your way of thinking.

.

You are so much trying to influence my thinking you posted twice, the second one a modified version of the first.
Fun is fucking fun. Your claim re "billions of dollars" spent to influence my thinking insults my ability to think. I have spent more years than you've probably been alive working in industries which spend those billions so I know a fair bit about it all. You're just espousing another of your manifold conspiracy theories to get people to burr up. Doing a pretty good job of it, too I might add.
Except most "thinking" people just see you as a single minded pedant with his own hidden agenda.
Tell us again how much you want to sell that board for, Roy.

roystewart Thursday, 19 Aug 2010 at 10:01 pm new

You are so much trying to influence my thinking you posted twice, the second one a modified version of the first.

By: "bombora"

That's an illogical argument. I posted twice by mistake, not because i thought that a double post would influence your thinking.

Fun is fucking fun.

That's a tautology, it's meaningless.

Your claim re "billions of dollars" spent to influence my thinking insults my ability to think.

It's a fact that billions of dollars are spent every year on scientific brainwashing in order to control the way you think. Realising this is a necessary step in avoiding it.

Your ability to think doesn't seem to be above average.

I have spent more years than you've probably been alive working in industries which spend those billions so I know a fair bit about it all.

Working in an industry doesn't necessarily make one aware of the brainwashing.

You're just espousing another of your manifold conspiracy theories to get people to burr up. Doing a pretty good job of it, too I might add.

It's an indisputable fact that billions are spent every year on scientific marketing. That marketing exists solely in order to control people's thinking and behaviour. Calling that a conspiracy theory is ridiculous.

Except most "thinking" people just see you as a single minded pedant with his own hidden agenda.

There are at least two logical fallacies in that argument.

It contains an invalid 'appeal to belief'

It's also an example of the logical fallacy known as the 'biased sample'

Tell us again how much you want to sell that board for, Roy.

Which board would you like to hear about ?

At present we are building the 19 foot 'Sun board' which has a price of US$852,000

.

bombora Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 02:12 am new
"bombora"]

You are so much trying to influence my thinking you posted twice, the second one a modified version of the first.

</blockquote><p class="quote-by">By: "roystewart"</p>

That's an illogical argument. I posted twice by mistake, not because i thought that a double post would influence your thinking.<strong>Yoy posted twice but the second one was a modified and expanded version of the first.</strong>

[quote

wrote:

Fun is fucking fun.

That's a tautology, it's meaningless.tautology is also fun

Your claim re "billions of dollars" spent to influence my thinking insults my ability to think.

It's a fact that billions of dollars are spent every year on scientific brainwashing in order to control the way you think. Realising this is a necessary step in avoiding it.I didn't question the figure just your apparent assumption that I was not smart enough to be aware of it.

Your ability to think doesn't seem to be above average.Probably not. What's YOUR excuse?

I have spent more years than you've probably been alive working in industries which spend those billions so I know a fair bit about it all.

Working in an industry doesn't necessarily make one aware of the brainwashing. It does if you've been part of the development teams

You're just espousing another of your manifold conspiracy theories to get people to burr up. Doing a pretty good job of it, too I might add.

It's an indisputable fact that billions are spent every year on scientific marketing. That marketing exists solely in order to control people's thinking and behaviour. Calling that a conspiracy theory is ridiculous.

Except most "thinking" people just see you as a single minded pedant with his own hidden agenda.

There are at least two logical fallacies in that argument.

It contains an invalid 'appeal to belief'

It's also an example of the logical fallacy known as the 'biased sample'Roy, you are a "biased sample" all by yourself

Tell us again how much you want to sell that board for, Roy.

Which board would you like to hear about ?

At present we are building the 19 foot 'Sun board' which has a price of US$852,000
price of US$852,000
price of US$852,000
price of US$852,000

[/quote]

thelostclimber Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 06:07 am new

This post has gone way off thread and enough has been said about opinions of the surf industry. So forgetting about all that

I surf for the adrenalin rush of taking the drop on big waves.

I surf because I love the feeling of time slowing down as I pull into a barrel.

I surf for the euphoric feeling of making it out of the barrel and into the channel.

I surf for the feeling of weightlessness as I begin the top turn of a floater.

I surf for the solitude (note I live in Tassie not Gold Coast) and being in tune with the ocean.

I surf to hang out with mates and do something we all enjoy.

I surf because I can.

seal Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 06:51 am new

I surf for FUN and I don't need some fuck-stick telling me that it's not! Been surfing for more years than alot of people on here, about 40 years give or take.Started doing it for fun with mates and still surfing for fun with mates and my kids.Though, at times the crowds take the fun out of it but then that's when I think I am still having alot more fun than working or trying to sell hunk of shit for US$852,000! Now that wouldn't be my idea of fun but if he pulls it off then he will be having alot of fun wth the money and knowing some poor fucked up rich prick has been fully sucked in!
And as thelostclimber says, " surfing is an euphoric feeling" which you really have to be a surfer to comprehend. Thats my two bobs worth anyhow.

jaffa1949 Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 12:34 pm new

Debate is over before it's begun.
The answer is lying like warmth from the sun.
The answer my son when all's said and done
to go out in the surf and have your own kind of fun.

But if you like serial arguing, to spite your own nose
delivered from great the wooden platform of modern olos.
Promulgation of your theories that no-one else knows
Then if you should sell one I really suppose,
reap the fruits of your labours, long since begun
match the smile in your beard as you take the money and run!

shaun Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 11:44 pm new

I surf because it has become an addiction, I've looked for counciling but there's no goverment funding.

nope Saturday, 21 Aug 2010 at 01:33 pm new

depending on the wave.
the objective without a doubt is getting the most enjoyment or rush YOU can outta the wave you are surfing.

you should do what you want but i recon in general;

small and short try standing on a lid.

small and long a mal.

heavy and/or fast a shortboard

and when super heavy for those otherwise left out or wasting waves try a lid.

big waves a gun. boogs go like poo in big stuff. sorry but true.

hoot somone who´s stoked no matter what they did or do! some people suck the fun outta surfing with im too good to smile or claim attidudes (unless in a heat)

when waiting for your next wave smile and talk to people it will make you feel better about your fellow humans!

bombora Sunday, 22 Aug 2010 at 07:05 am new

hoot somone who´s stoked no matter what they did or do! some people suck the fun outta surfing with im too good to smile or claim attidudes (unless in a heat)

when waiting for your next wave smile and talk to people it will make you feel better about your fellow humans!

By: "nope"

Absolutely. I'm happy to say that's the vibe at my local - short boards, long boards, boogers, knee boards, skis and SUP's. There are some gooses on each of those but the majority just enjoy surfing, they have FUN. Cheer one another, even call someone else onto the wave from time to time. I surf in a great spot on the east coast of Australia and despite being a part of a crowded surf coast, it's manageable with the right attitude.

sesh Monday, 31 Jan 2011 at 11:49 am new

I guess the main thing for me is to get the adrenaline release... sometimes it all happens so quickly I can't always remember exactly how it all happened, but i roll off the back of it and start paddling out again looking for the same feeling or better.

more Monday, 31 Jan 2011 at 08:44 pm new

to have fun, to leave the stresses of life behind even if only for a while, to enjoy something that nature has created...

www.moresurfboards.com

batfink_and_karate Tuesday, 1 Feb 2011 at 05:00 am new

Good question benski.

Great response malibu_1963. :-) . I'm sure that's why some people surf. They kill the joy of it for me.

What is my objective. In a few words - Flow, drawing lines, going fast. The wave tells me which one takes precedence in any ride.

On the more spiritual side, for me it is now about moments of joy, most usually found on clear crisp mornings, offshore winds, soft morning light, rarely with a crowd. As often enough it comes in the moments waiting for the next wave.

Joy! It is actually a rarely experienced emotion, and tends to get harder to find up to a certain age.

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