Home Made Board Thread
The channels have been sanded a little to allow the glass to wrap over a bit easier, the side lighting is accentuating the edginess of them. I've been using Colan 4oz glass, and finding it very supple and behaves well on channels.
Cheers Tiger amazing work with the cedar I struggle here in WA to find any.
I got lucky with a garage sale find with the cedar. A bunch of 3mm planks of random jointed cedar. Fast running out of it though, can't imagine I'll ever find any more of it. How thick Paulownia veneers are you using?
Thickness varies a bit depending on what weight I want deck and bottom currently 2.5mm to 3mm, did a another 6.0 channel twin recently that came in equal or better weigh wise than a production board.
The XPS rails would save a lot of weight interesting flex too I would imagine.
Ifocus and Tiger, stunningly beautiful boards there. That's the future! Those channels and the method, wow, top work.
We have been left with a heap of cedar after a home reno, to be de-nailed and then cut into thicknesses/lengths. It's beautiful stuff. Can't believe that most reno work it just goes in the landfill bin!
Cheers on the thicknesses Ifocus. Tried one paulownia board with 1/4 inch deck (6.35mm) and even with skeleton/outriggers it came out a bit too heavy...
Thanks VJ. The cedar I've got is a bit all over the place thickness wise. So I'm running everything through a thicknesser down to 2.5mm. I often used divinycell for the rails previously, but found the boards were a little too rigid, one reason I've generally steered away from timber on the rails as well. These things are coming out with performance shortboard weight, but 10X the durability.
Building timber rails = a lot of frigging around plus harder to shape, a lot more time all round.
Pic of a longboard I knocked up wrapped the timber around the nose for the rail
udo wrote:
9 years on
I must have missed this thanks Udo, pity you are not in WA Stu I would finish it off for you the build process seems hard to me if I understand correctly you cut the outline after the rails went on?
Shit eh...
Support Perko before buying Sideways Asian Build..
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Coby is also a Finecraftsman
get what ya pay for with the old perko though ...buyer beware.......Coby is ok from what i hear
udo wrote:
Yeah.. nah the rail must be formed so it releases also from one rail to the other.
udo wrote:
More about the hard edge part of the rail displacing the water in that clip, cool to see such a simple method of showing how the edge works between the transition from hard and the soft though (without any confusion / contribution involved by fins)
Thats an issue I see with the soft rail guns that are so popular / common at the moment, not enough downrail / hard edge anymore, they still look to work but wheres the squirt come from?
Any thoughts Clam?
Its a Cool vid eh.. Swellnet Engineers : Plasticspastic and Pops You like ?
udo wrote:
Its a Cool vid eh.. Swellnet Engineers : Plasticspastic and Pops You like ?
Yeah agree I was being harsh.
What a Beauty...
Tiger why the use of FCS single Plugs...because of the Channels ?
Thanks udo. Yes the fcs 1 are a much easier install with the channels. You generally run a smaller fin template in 6 channel boards, so I find them adequate.
Yes AB always had those small fins with really narrow swept out tip. I used to see a lot of his boards back in the day under the feet of Rob Sherwell and Sasha Stocker and the boards were made for all conditions, they had amazingly small fins. Back then I used to run the old yu's in my 6 channels. Lately I've used a small Al Merrick template that work great.
Beauty, Tiger! Can't even begin to imagine how tricky that would have been.
Shapers still make the AB1s, btw. They're very nice fins.
Here's the 6'6" six channel along with the 6'8" midlength I'd been working on. Super stoked on how these boards have been coming out. I get a big kick out of the theory/execution/result/performance process. I've been riding one exactly the same as the 6'8" for the past few months, about as close to a perfect all-rounder for me as possible.
Josh Dowling-level of complexity and aesthetics.
They look unreal, Tiger.
Thanks Stu and Simba. Yes doing orders, and just knocking out some stock like these ones.
You can Skip reading this Tiger
https://www.nowtro.com/shapers-bay
Always something to learn UDO. I should let it be known that I have spent half of my adult life making surfboards and working in the industry. So I'm not your average "backyarder", just so happens I tinker from home these days.
Master Craftsmanship Tiger ...Beautiful work.
https://www.instagram.com/elixirsurfboards/?hl=en
Thanks for that udo. Trying not to spam on here, but every little bit helps for people to know I'm back on the tools.
Spam away!
Dues owed for the time you spent doing live dawn reports from your previous locale.
https://www.google.com/search?q=seinfeld+the+jimmy+youtube&ei=rgdmZJXxA…
tell Jimmy he,s dreaming with that stick
For those interested here's a little something I've been working on. I documented a fair bit of the build process on my insta/FB if you'd like to check it out. Udo put a link to it above.
Have been thinking of converting the spare bedroom into a shaping bay. I am concerned about foam dust so either thinking a double door entry or blocking the internal door and altering to an external entry only. Any thoughts.
Is external light problematic such as windows or glass sliding door.
Also most seem to be painted blue- is there a specific reason.
what would be a minium size needed - can't see me shaping much behond 7ft's.
Any thoughts suggestions appreciated.
cheers
Wingnut.. A 3x3 Garden shed was adequate for All works?
https://www.ffwsurfboards.com.au/ - Great Info from Wingy
Spare room - External Door...Block and fully Seal the other - Foam dust sneaks in everywhere
Black used to popular for room Colour then Blue..Shrednaught has Blue and another nice Colour
Thanks Udo. Ok, external door will be the go.
And the Wingnut link looks like just what i'm after.
cheers.
Thanks for the comments above lads.
And cd a spare bedroom should be more than adequate sizewise for a shaping bay, given most are in the 3x3m range. Colour wise you just want a flat medium to darker colour. Something that won't reflect light too much and give you good contrast against the blank. Just buy some cheap flat ceiling white, tint it with pretty much any other dark paint and you're sorted.
CD
Note the multiple horizontal taped lines on the wall in the photo above(I have never seen this very nifty idea before).
Those lines are a shaping aid which help you check for twists when shaping the bottom.
Just stand at the tail end and as you lift up the tail run your eye down the length of the board noting any areas not horizontal.
Shaping bays need to be longer than 3 metres (10 feet)
10 feet only allows 1 1/2 feet each end of a 7 foot board
You need at least a 2ft gap at the nose end and 4ft gap at the tail end.
13ft or 4metres.
You don't want to bump or move the board especially when shaping the bottom.
Finished off the 5'10" semi fish twin. Super happy with how the bottom contours come out in this one. It's pretty much flat in the entry, running into a double concave, blending into the tail channel which also has vee in the last 12". All vac formed in the bagging stage.
Cheers etarip. I rode a slightly more high performance version of this board at 6'. Don't think I could've gone any faster in the little 2-3ft runners I was surfing. This is a stocky if anyone is keen.
Show us your home made boards! Here's my first three from right to left (took me about 2 years from first to last):
Board 1 5'10"x21x2 3/4 PU/PE horrible cut lap gouges, heaps of volume, I rode it pretty much exclusively for the 12 months after making it. I'd still be riding it now but it's out of action with a busted fin.
Board 2 5'10"x20x2 1/2 PU/PE ugh I seem to have a habit of doing something the second time much worse than the first. Super boxy rails. I haven't ridden this one much. Cut from a fish blank so it's got a very flat rocker.
Board 3 5'8"x19x2 1/2 PU/Epoxy with an acrylic fade brushed on. I still ride this one. Again, this one is cut from a fish blank. I tried to increase tail rocker and shape in double concaves through the fins and a vee off the tail. It technically has all of these features but at the confluence of the three it's got these weird hip bone curves right where the side fins are facing outwards from the bottom. I used peel ply for this one and a foam roller. No sanding and you can see the squeegee lines in the hot coat.
Board 4 5'2"x19x2 1/2 I re-shaped a factory second machine shape that was very kindly given to me when I when to buy a marko blank. Stringerless EPS with two layers of 4oz on the bottom and three layers on the deck. I used peel ply again this time with a squeegee and a roller for the rails. This is my go to board (or the fade thruster). It's super light and super fast and realistically it's pretty uncommon to get waves on the GC that this board can't handle. I hand sanded the rails and bottom using wet sand paper and left the deck unsanded.
Board 6 5'10"x19x2 1/3 I'm currently building. I've had the machine shaped blank for about 18 months but now with the lock down I've got a pretty good excuse to finish it. First time using the Surf Flex resin from Sanded and I'm pretty impressed with it. Coming back the following day after laminating it was really easy to cut through the glass with a razor so I reckon I might attempt a cut lap again on Board 7 or 8. This will be my most "conventional" short board. Not sure how I'm going to find riding it as I'm not used to having to generate speed. Definitely the best shape out of the boards I've done and I'll be almost certainly getting my next boards machine shaped.
I'm finding the glassing to be the part of the process I'm most interested in. All of my boards have mistakes and bubbles and insects in the glass. I'd love to be able to do this more often but need to work out how to make it cheaper / get more time. I reckon once I'm past board 10 I might be less sentimental about them and will probably start trying to sell them used to help fund the next one.