Where did you surf today?
seeds wrote:
Very cool Supa.
Considering old fart discussions posted in response to an article here you are killing it. Nice work.
(no offense intended)
I didn’t read any offense in that seeds , I’m a grommet at heart but the old fart body doesn’t want to play the game early morning. It’s a regular daily warm up & stretch not by choice but by necessity. It’s pretty funny talking to other guys my age & older in the surf about our various aches & pains . I’ve said it before , wish I had done more stretching as a 25 -30 yo , I didn’t really start doing anything until about 5 years ago and it’s always felt like a chore, but now it’s become a daily routine I’m happy to do in order to keep surfing .
Thanks for the compliments guys, I always see flaws in my style and I’m my own worst critic. It has been a lot of fun last few days and this morning is going to possibly be the best so far this week . Looking forward to your indo reports Craig , hope you enjoyed whatever you got up to in the last week. @andy-mac , the year has been pretty good so far , hope it continues for your trip and say hello if you visit NL . I’m off to the ments on the 18th April for 3 weeks .
I was wingfoiling the Box yesterday in absolutely epic conditions. There were some sick waves out there and foiling them was such a leg burner. Linking bumps for hundreds of meters. Wingfoiling saved me in the last 2-3 years, my time on water increased significantly. Ironically, the wind dropped today with some good waves around but my body is trashed. I might just try to duck out for a late, lazy SUP session before dark.
Supafreak wrote:
Last 2 days on my new 6’6” Lost PJHP RND with MF 2+1 . Felt great for this young fella . East coast bali
great photos mate , ripping
most punters would be stoked with that
udo wrote:
What time yesday flollo ?
Hi mate, I was out around lunch time until 3PM. It was unreal with some strong sets coming through.
That’s a big puddle your jumping supa….looks the goods. He’s making great old guy boards even up to 8’0.
Some good size waves at dawn yesterday but local photographer didn’t show up until about 8.00 am and it had backed off considerably. Had to drag out the 6’10 DS , I unfortunately put the new PJ on the rocks after a lip landed on my leash ( tearing off ankle ) as I was getting axed on a late take off on set of the morning the previous day . Only minor damage to the nose and couple of scratches . Didn’t surf this morning as yesterday a bomb set broke just in front of me and I tried to duckdive and while getting rodeoed under water it ripped the board from my clasp and sprained my wrist , then got washed 300 meters in and paddled back out wincing in pain . Iced it all yesterday but bit sore this morning . Just another niggling injury to look after . 
Awesome stuff Super. As etarip said, living the dream.
BTW, bloody photographer, working Gentlemen's hours, what's he like?
blackers wrote:
Awesome stuff Super. As etarip said, living the dream.
BTW, bloody photographer, working Gentlemen's hours, what's he like?
He’s a local Balinese that has gained about 30 kg since taking up photography approximately 15 years ago, he mainly travels around with surf guides for the Japanese/Korean crowd . Nice bloke but not sure what he charges normally .He’s very good friends with the family where I stay on NL . Business must be ok by the looks of his car & belly .
Tricky first surf in Chile this morning. I think the swell is a bit bigger than ideal for this spot. Lots of 6ft wash-throughs way wide of the bank made it almost impossible to sit in close to get the 3-4 ft’er that hugged what I assume is the normal sand bank. The current was crazy, took 2 goes to get out.
Got 3 ok ones but saw some absolute gems in between the sets, not sure how you would get in position for them though. Heading further north tomorrow which in theory might shelter the swell a bit.
Awesome!
Bit more info Os- water temp, local vibe, what you do for tucker etc.? Be interesting to hear.
Chile must be an adventure and some.
only-sams wrote:
Tricky first surf in Chile this morning. I think the swell is a bit bigger than ideal for this spot. Lots of 6ft wash-throughs way wide of the bank made it almost impossible to sit in close to get the 3-4 ft’er that hugged what I assume is the normal sand bank. The current was crazy, took 2 goes to get out.
Got 3 ok ones but saw some absolute gems in between the sets, not sure how you would get in position for them though. Heading further north tomorrow which in theory might shelter the swell a bit.
Unreal, you will score!
As Zen mentioned, be great to learn more.
zenagain wrote:
Awesome!
Bit more info Os- water temp, local vibe, what you do for tucker etc.? Be interesting to hear.
Chile must be an adventure and some.
No problem Zen.
I’m travelling together with the missus so not a hardcore surf trip, we compromised on 6 nights heading north between Cobquecura and Pichilemu.
A car is 1000% essential, we rented one for about 600 AUD for 10 days in Santiago, spent a few days doing inland stuff and now working our way back north along the coast. The roads are pretty good (coming from NZ) but the main Pan-am highway has some gnarly tolls.
First surf today was by myself, not another person on the beach (too big for the fisherman). It’s off-season for Chilean holiday makers so the beaches are mostly deserted. This evening I surfed the point where we are staying and it was handling the swell much better, maybe 8 guys in the water but a huge playing field so pretty spread out. Seemed to be a mix of tourists (mostly Brazilian or Argentinian) and locals, its saturday tomorrow so will see what happens with the crowds.
Water temp is maybe 14 - I’m in a 1 season old 4/3 and it’s fine with no boots or hood. There’s so much paddling you don’t get cold.
The accomodation options are pretty sweet. We are staying in little cabins for anywhere between 60-80 AUD a night. Mostly cooking for ourselves because we are vego’s and Chileans seem to only eat meat. Plenty of little shops around selling veges and stuff. Otherwise every little town has a restaurant in it.
Fuel is about $2.15 Aussie, not too bad.
Overall so far it’s been surprisingly mellow, the towns feel like what I imagine Aussie and kiwi surf towns felt like in 1980 (I’m only 29, you tell me).
only-sams wrote:
Tricky first surf in Chile this morning. I think the swell is a bit bigger than ideal for this spot. Lots of 6ft wash-throughs way wide of the bank made it almost impossible to sit in close to get the 3-4 ft’er that hugged what I assume is the normal sand bank. The current was crazy, took 2 goes to get out.
Got 3 ok ones but saw some absolute gems in between the sets, not sure how you would get in position for them though. Heading further north tomorrow which in theory might shelter the swell a bit.
Fantastic..keep the pics coming.
@only-sams , awesome mate , have a wonderful time exploring the coast and countryside, looking good so far and looking forward to more photos & pics of your adventures .
Sounds like a cool trip. Looking forward to hearing more.
Let us know how your Saturday sesh goes.
Stay safe.
Sure does sound like a great trip. Thanks for telling the story mate.
Unreal! cheers for the headsup @onlysams. Been wanting to get to that coast for ages.
And great pics @supa. Hows that hack!!!!! Fark!!!! Should be swellnets new logo!!
Legend.
Natural @base. But surf way more lefts than rights these days. Love going left. Bread and butter since the day street left days!! haha
Never picked you as a goof! That's thrown a spanner in the works!! ;-)
we all need to come out of the closet..
we lost our leader (to @indo, so the legend goes), @goofyfoot.
time to regroup and focus. I've given Luke Sykora a tap.
haha. The funny thing was i was walking back up to the house tonight, jumped up the steps, and thought....shit...i think i'm a goofy!!! I think i'm a goofy @basesix!!
Ahh shit yeah, where's @goofyfoot. Miss ya goofy! He knows all my fave little nooks and crannies on that little stretch of coast E of Horsehair.
@base, if ever there were to be a leader for the goofs, as far as i'm concerned...you're the chosen one mate.
haha, cheers mate. It's gotta be one of the Craigs.. family responsibilities allowing.. @adam12, is Hutchy goof or regular?
And would love to share my surf...but ahh..nah...not on the internet let alone Australias leading surf forecasting website (gushing with pride to be a part of it..can't help that) where every c@nt from all over Australia can see it!!! Blowy, 1foot closeouts. Yep!! All it ever is here! Get me to Chilean points pronto!!The further south, going by @onlysams posts of swell intensity...the better. Although i'd probably crumble at the sight of that raw SW oceanic energy!
haha.. best ever half-cut realisation to shout the the neighborhood?
"shit...i think i'm a goofy!!"
classic.
basesix wrote:
haha, cheers mate. It's gotta be one of the Craigs.. family responsibilities allowing.. @adam12, is Hutchy goof or regular?
Geez i really don't know @base. However,,right now Poppa owns Adam12 in the AFL stakes. Big win to the Dees a coupla nights ago. And as far as i know, thats all that matters for those two, and in my opinion, furry muff too!!
basesix wrote:
haha.. best ever half-cut realisation to shout the the neighborhood?
"shit...i think i'm a goofy!!"
classic.
Nah it's fucked! Changes my whole world perspective. Should be a royal commission into this @base. haha
nope.. don't you see? this is your Dr. Emmett Brown moment.. the roller suit to slidey-skim-suit showing you that you are the chosen one to develop the idea..
I'm off to get Thai take-away across from Chappy Jennings' alma mater.. have a good one ; )
How many goofs are left handed? I don’t reckon it’s a thing.
Straw poll…..
B6. Right handed but goofy
Me. Right handed but goofy
fark.. that's interesting @seeds..
my dad was a lefty that got shit smacked out of him for it in UK schools,
he came across to Aus as a manmade righty at age 9.
dunno if that's a thing, hehe.
my son is a lefty with right tendencies, he loves working at being ambidextrous at tasks.
I mean, i feel im fukn halfway there @base....surely it's just a little jump to hyperspace!
Yeah questioning everything when you question your stance after 30plus years of surfing. Still..gotta be honest...i'm not hall of fame, Ethan Ewing at Bells, but saw some footage the other day in good waves....and..i make it ok as a natural!! Like i know the front of the wave from the back, and i even flexed a few little ankle muscles at a really critical moment! I'm gonna stick with it but will keep my vision open for a switch!! Lookout @base!
seeds wrote:
How many goofs are left handed? I don’t reckon it’s a thing.
Straw poll…..
B6. Right handed but goofy
Me. Right handed but goofy
Nah @seeds..i'm studying all that shit and apparently theres way more than we realized!!
Hopefully all goofy footers on here might give us a straw poll result
Bring it! would love to see it. Signing out chaps. Nighty night! cheers for the laughs.
seeds wrote:
Hopefully all goofy footers on here might give us a straw poll result
Right-handed, goofy and so is my brother
yeh, so, another straw poll.. how many right handers who surf goofy, street skated goofy as a grom, leaning all your body weight onto your right leg up front, while the left just scooted you along.. makes sense, left foot just plants like a gondola pole, the right pushes the skatey forward.. I did. might be a thing. Right leg thigh burn was massive when skating kms.. what's the physio/tech theory, skaters?
A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!