~ Random Insta Pics and Clips ~
udo wrote:
Always wanted to try one of Mitchel Raes flex tails. Notice hes using futures in the front and fcs ones in the rear. JS doesnt believe futures allow flex and will crack so he doesnt use them in his boards.
I questioned MR on futures and flex but no answer, all my boards that ive kept are futures or glass in except for one 6 channel which i havent used yet as i used to be too fat for it. Will soon though as im now 75 kg.. anyway id like to know more about flex in fin boxes but nobody seems to talk.
Jed Done is another guy doing flex tails and Mick Mackie but they are hardly ever online.
Prof Mark Panhuis is the man for your Flex Questions https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2018/07/11/science-flex…
A tail of a board plugged for 5 with futures boxes def going to effect flex
Jed uses 4-wfs in some of his boards
udo wrote:
Prof Mark Panhuis is the man for your Flex Questions https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2018/07/11/science-flex…
A tail of a board plugged for 5 with futures boxes def going to effect flex- Gravelle spoke of this many years ago
Jed uses 4-wfs in some of his boards
Quote the fish tank critter from Finding Nemo
"Dam you Aqua Scum"......
Goofyfoot I have no idea what you mean but ive surfed with Chong
on many epic days out Ulus for the last decade or so and all I can say
hes a pretty cool dude always friendly and courteous and a blt of a
character keeps the line up in order and shares lotsa waves. Good guy
Udo if you ever find a san diego guy that goes by the name Michael and only surfs a 5'8 fish at 8-10ft speedies or 15ft scars please let us know...The guys an absolute nutter always waiting for the biggest days.I dont know if hes on instagram or facebook.
This guy named Michael was living near my mate for a few weeks and didnt seem to surf much, when it was small anyway.
One day in west sumbawa he was outside my mates hut scrounging around through my mates stuff, my mate checks the surf first and sees its 15 foot plus at scars and then says "whats you doing?"
Michael replies double leashing man!!! trying to find a spare leash!
He paddles out with two legropes wrapped around his ankles and continues to charge the biggest swell of the year solo.
I met him one year earlier in 2008 id been staying there for four weeks and spent 5 months in south sumatra before that with a couple of party weeks in stadium nightclub type places. so i was partied out and skinny running out of cash living on rice and dried fish..waiting for tax return.when i had to meet my brother and Matt Percy at g-land now the first few days a promised swell never came it looked good sw to me a good swell for one palm point but the swell never arrived so we were lucky we didnt go to penaitan instead...anyway we score a few different swells at moneytrees and the ledge and a few uncrowded small days at minimal tide speedies, then boom news from kalbarri was there was a 6 metre south south east swell coming with a full moon hightide the next day...anyway Matt Percy tries to wake me up but im on anti psychotics that make me sleep for 10 hours minimum so i told him to fuck off but he wanted to get out there and surf the new swell first...the swell hitting kongs was massive but the swell hitting launch pads and speedies was 8-10 foot and perfect direction, south is usually better but a little west made it so you'd have to go faster to come out.anyway MP gets his early waves and the swells still building at 8-10ft speedies anyway i paddle out without breakfast on my boog because i didnt think my 6'6 was big enough and my only other boards were a fish or a lid im most comfortable on the lid even if its not as exciting but dealing with 8-10ft speedies i had to go the lid i thought. anyway i paddle out and meet this guy i heard stories about from a northern beaches surfer who always surfs a 5'8 fish...anyway he was riding a 5'8 fish so i asked him if his name is Michael from san diego and he says yeah man howd you know that? i said a friend in Australia told me about you.
His fish was 5'8 narrower tail than most fish and lower rails too. it was the day of all days at speedies, a little bit of west in the swell to make it fast but not closing out at all. This day there were no drop ins, only people paddling in case the deeper surfer fell or pulled back but pretty much no drop ins. it was barrelling like teahopou but ten times the length on some others were a bit shorter.i guessed they were the more south ones.
Anyway this big set comes and Michael is deepest and charges paddling straight into it flying highlines into the beast and im paddling out watching the tail bounce around trying to flip Mike off his board, solid 8 -10 second tube that one and he emerges with shouts from anybody who saw it. everyone was curious about his board.By the way its the only board he brought, he had no spares.
(i could have bought photos of that wave but it was already $200 for all the photos i wanted of myself and a few of some others,i was getting low on cash.
Anyway i couldnt compete with all the anti booger guys out at launching pads so i stayed near the middle of speedies getting 6ft waves that didnt peak up at launch pads got my fair share there, on one a lip landed on my hand and my hand came off my board while i was in the tube and it took a few seconds to get the claw back onto the right spot that wave was probably only 5 foot but threw a lip out about 7 feet wide my best wave of the day and happy to ride it in as my last wave...as im coming in matt percy yells at me to go over to a floating body he wanted my board to help a injured surfer who looks like he was drowning for some reason. we went out to him put him on my board and he was in agony.
we floated him to shore i ran to doctor Phillip Chapman the onsite doctor and ask him to leave the guy hes stitching up and come check out a guy we thought broke his back.
Turns out with a few tests he did it was a broken pelvis from seeing a monster set and freaking out not knowing what to do so he just sat on his board as the lip compressed him and his board into the reef.
Anyway the docs and staff were freaking out and couldn't find a helicopter that wasn't busy taking tourists around Bali..and also the massive full moon tide meant no landing on the reef.
The south african injured guy was getting worse so the doc took the van they had there and took him to bangiwangi hospital and further treatment in a Perth hospital.Apparently he made a complete recovery.
So many stories in this one left out and added i dont know which ones are better stories....
Epic tale groundswell I heard about that dude. Apparently he was way out of his depth, and as you say was in the path of a big hollow one at speedies and just sat up on his board, turned to face the beach and wore the lip straight down his spine.
Came close to dying yeah?
yeah mate he had internal bleeding close to death. without Doctor phill there hed be history.
Yeah I've heard that story as well, God sounds soo heavy, wouldn't even want to imaging it or witness it. Like a car crash in slow-mo.
3 inch seperation at the Pelvis....holy shit
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2018/04/11/doctors-who-…
Nice Freeride i might dig up some pics i have of the day. But i think ive posted them before.
Whatevers ill post em i miss indo.
Matt Percy pigdog,, sequence is way too long to post here
Matt Percy on the esky lid
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Groundswell adventures 1
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Love ya shots freeride and groundswell , good stuff . It’s been pumping lately, watching various videos on YouTube of everywhere but haven’t seen anything on GLand
Thanks SF i wish i could remember the photographers name though..been 13 years though.
I dont think g-land is open. only the local and some security staff staying in the camp like my pal Echo who lives there in jungle camp and lives off the land and sea.
I was talking to a bloke out in the surf about 2 months ago , he is mates with someone who went there with banksy , said they were the only 2 there .